So just to help with searches, this is for the M 139 AMG engine. Good luck folks and happy DIY'ing.

 

For anyone not familiar with German oil filters these things are not obvious. Now which drain plug is motor oil and which one is the transmission ...

 

Wayne, the hex bolt which screws into the waffle patterned pan is for the oil. I know this because the dealership and/or factory overfilled the engine oil by 1 quart. When I drained it, the oil level came back to level with maximum. The drain for the transmission is not visible in this photo.

This was my welcome to the new M 139 engine. It was interesting to find this since every manual and YouTube video I saw was not correlating to what I was seeing.

 

Anyone know what part numbers and crusher washers are needed for the diy’er out there? I’m not trying to spend close to 300$ on a oil change 😅 I can take the wifey out with that money instead
P.S first time working on a German car, 2021 Gla45

 

Honestly, I would just get them from your local dealer. The crush washer will be expensive but it is worth it to me. And yeh, I was shocked to find out the costs. The great thing is that this is not a difficult service. The important thing to realize is that ere is no dipstick on this, so you will have to go into the Workshop menu to see your oil level.

 

Earlier versions had dip sticks. I can't speak from experience on the new model. But if it is electronic my advice would be ...

1. Start with a picture of the odometer for your records. Depending upon how you feel this might be after a warm up drive or when the car is cold.

2. Measure the oil on the gauge. If it is low you may want to add a bit more than you take out. Add less if it is high (I don't like to run my oil at absolute full). And add what you removed if the gauge indicates just below full. Note ... Follow the Manual on oil measurement procedure. In the Porsche world of the 997 (911 from 2005 to 2012) the first generation (through 2008) required cold measurement with motor off while the second generation required warm measurement while idling at a stop.

3. Drain the oil into an empty container. If you are planning on sending off a sample for a used oil analysis grab this from the stream after a few seconds of drain.

4. Pull the filter and drain into the old oil container.

5. Replace the filter using a bit of the old oil to lubricate the o ring.

6. Install the drain plug with new crush washer (available for pennies at most auto parts shops).

7. Empty your 5 quart jug of new oil into the car.

8. Fill that 5 quart jug with the drained oil (a funnel is helpful).

9. Use your wife's measuring cup from the kitchen to measure the remaining oil. Yes, there are a lot of things that are wrong in that sentence!!!

10. Add a bit more oil as appropriate to match the drained amount, more or less.

11. Start the motor, verify oil pressure, check for leaks (badly seated o ring on the filter, for instance).

12. Check the oil level per the Owner's Manual.

The dealer may opt to stuff an oil extractor down the dip stick hole on models that have a dip stick. I picked up a vacuum extractor years ago to see how well this did. After extraction I raised the car on my lift and pulled the drain plug. Over a quart more oil drained. I feel the drain plug is the best method. But realize that not all oil will drain from all the motor nooks and crannies. You're doing more of an oil dilution than a change. My 997 claims to have a 9 quart capacity but I've never drained more than 7.5 quarts. So I don't worry about draining overnight as some do. Once you get to a drip every few seconds that works for me.

Good luck and enjoy.

 

Dealer parts dept is your best bet. It should be a couple of dollars unless the dealer is doing a hefty mark-up.