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Discussion starter · #21 ·
might think about putting my powerflex lower engine insert in, as i have the lower engine mount exposed. i've had the insert sitting in my basement for a couple years? last time i thought about attempting it, it seemed rather impossible. maybe with a straight head i'll be able to get it in there. will update :LOL:
 
well, after 4 years of ownership, the gla finally got a ride on a tow truck :oops:

on my wife's b'day as well lol. fortunately she is incredibly understanding (and patient).

happened during the intense heat we've been having. i believe it was over 100 deg fahrenheit. was doing a bunch of errands that day so it was obviously getting hot as heck under the hood.

so two things happened: the battery started to die as i was driving and shortly after that, i got a warning to stop the engine as the coolant had become way too hot. the needle was pegged at one point. thus, i shut down the car on a busy street and had a cop help me push it off to the shoulder (yes, in 100 deg heat). we then sat in the car for an hour and a half or so lol with no a/c. that was fun! we made the best of it tho (what else can you do in those situations).

when i got it home, i checked for trouble codes and am getting a P0562 (low voltage). this makes a bit of sense as i'm running a lightweight battery and i don't drive it much (so it sits much of the time). ofc, i wasn't keeping it charged and so it probably was low. it also has a P060A code, but i believe that might be related to various modules shutting down prematurely.

i cleared the codes but the P0562 is permanent. so, i put another battery in it (from my other car) hoping this would solve the P0562.

alas, unfortunately, i'm still not able to drive it as the coolant issue is still happening (it will shoot up just driving it around the block).

i'm not seeing any codes related to the coolant issue. coolant level looks fine. i did have to top it off about a year and a half ago and occasionally i'll get a whiff of coolant (esp after starting it after sitting for a while). funny enough i was going to get a coolant pressure tester to chase down this issue (i think it must be a very small leak) and it looks like that just bumped up in priority lol.

wish me luck. going to go out back to see what i can see with it.
Any update? I'm having the same issue, now dealer saying need new water pump. Not optimistic of the chart and resolution.
GLA250 4matic 2015 100k+ miles.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Any update? I'm having the same issue, now dealer saying need new water pump. Not optimistic of the chart and resolution.
GLA250 4matic 2015 100k+ miles.
no update yet - serpentine belt tool should be here in a couple days.

were you having the issue of the battery dying as well (from not being charged by the alternator)?
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
does anyone by chance have the torque values for the idler pulley?
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
got it on!

Image


that serpentine belt tool worked perfectly. took mere minutes with the right tool :LOL:

let it idle until warm and coolant temp stayed exactly where it should. gonna button it back up and take it for a cruise.
 
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Discussion starter · #27 ·
cruise was successful! she's back to her beastly ways :D huge relief!
 
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Discussion starter · #30 ·
thanks! LOL

topped off the coolant with a couple ounces (didn't measure but around that amount) of distilled water and took her back out. purrin' like a kitten and growlin' like a tiger! 🐱🐯

i promised her that i'd give her some more time and attention 😄

i swear she overheard my thoughts about picking up a fiat 124 spider (my other car is a modded fiat 500 turbo) and threw a fit :LOL:
 
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The tool you write of is the Bonbo Serpentine belt tool for mercedes part number 270589000700.
This is available on Amazon for $23.
BTW, when they indicate check belt at 20K and 50 K Miles, the procedure in the WIS, is you remove the belt to evaluate it, not look and make sure that you still have a belt, which is what the dealer would do.
The OEM belt is not expensive, $14.
The WIS Procedure to remove the belt just says remove panelling, set the tool in, then remove the belt.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
The tool you write of is the Bonbo Serpentine belt tool for mercedes part number 270589000700.
This is available on Amazon for $23.
BTW, when they indicate check belt at 20K and 50 K Miles, the procedure in the WIS, is you remove the belt to evaluate it, not look and make sure that you still have a belt, which is what the dealer would do.
The OEM belt is not expensive, $14.
The WIS Procedure to remove the belt just says remove panelling, set the tool in, then remove the belt.
how would you evaluate the belt after it is removed?
 
looking at the belt, i'm not seeing any cracks or wear marks. from a bit of research, it is saying that modern serpentine belts don't really show any visible signs of wear.
how would you evaluate the belt after it is removed?
Likely a dealership would not do much more than your own visual inspection. However they may have more belt-failure experience with telltale signs to look for. So best to do so as scheduled or if in doubt as were you. As you've indicated the belt itself is quite inexpensive; surprising for Benz. ;) (y)
 
With any serpentine belt, you remove it, turn it inside out and progressively pinch it around the circumference looking for cracks.
when a belt is worn and ready to break, it develops cracks on the inside first. Those are not visible with the belt in a normal situation, but if you turn it inside out, you can see them.
this is not from the WIS, but an article I saw, or maybe the “WIS” of my Alfa Romeo back in the ‘90’s.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
hmmmm. i was reading that the newer belts don't show wear marks like the older belts did (i'm old enough to remember, lol).

i didn't see any cracks or marks or anything on the snapped belt, but then again i'm just a lil ol' shadetree mechanic so perhaps i didn't look thoroughly enough :LOL:

either way, this was a maintenance item i overlooked and i won't make that mistake again! breaking down sucks :p
 
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There is a lot to belts.
there is such thing as a light weight belt.
In the Subaru world you could pay extra and save on moving parts.
but the lightweight belt has a sewn construction, it has a transversal seem.
that belt can break at the seem.
Other belts have a vulcanized construction, with no seam. Or compound construction.
when I replace mine (cause they all snap at the same mileage, seen it with Subarus too ), I will let you know more about this belt.
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
How often that belt should be change ?
I have 150 000km and it never been change..
it's hard to find a good answer on this, but from what i've seen, it should be changed before 100k miles. optimal would be after 50k miles.

i think mine went a bit early. prob was some sort of karma i had to have worked out :LOL:
 
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