Mercedes-Benz GLA Forum banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,
Its a Mercedes GLA 2016 Diesel Manual.
Today while accelerating in 4th gear suddenly the car looses power and engine light check comes on, I was on a highway and I had a couple of minutes to finish the drive so I did and the car was very low on power all the way, didn't pass 3k RPM, like limp mode almost.

Got a code reader from a friend, reads P0101 which is the MAF, right?
Cleared the codes and the car drove very well on the way back, and then again at 4th gear, heavy foot on the gas - same thing, loss of power, check engine light is on.

Came home, cleared codes - didn't work at first, but I let the car sit a bit and it worked.

Now the question is, what are my next steps?
Should I take apart the MAF and clean it?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,952 Posts
Sounds like you're comfortable doing the cleaning so that would seem like a natural first step.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Hello all,
Its a Mercedes GLA 2016 Diesel Manual.
Today while accelerating in 4th gear suddenly the car looses power and engine light check comes on, I was on a highway and I had a couple of minutes to finish the drive so I did and the car was very low on power all the way, didn't pass 3k RPM, like limp mode almost.

Got a code reader from a friend, reads P0101 which is the MAF, right?
Cleared the codes and the car drove very well on the way back, and then again at 4th gear, heavy foot on the gas - same thing, loss of power, check engine light is on.

Came home, cleared codes - didn't work at first, but I let the car sit a bit and it worked.

Now the question is, what are my next steps?
Should I take apart the MAF and clean it?
Hi. I have a 2015 GLA and I had the same thing happened to my car while driving. I did the same you did. Eventually, your car will get worse and you will not be able to drive it. If you have not change the main battery and the auxillary battery at the front passenger side, do so now. I was told the service advisor that batteries need to be changed by the third year. MB service might suggest there's a problem with transmission and need to be fixed based on the code. I insisted to have batteries changed first and deal with transmission issues code after.

Guess what I was right. Problem solved car is running since. No problem with transmission at all. Good luck I hope you read this on time before spending unnecessary repairs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Interesting, I changed the main battery not long ago, I am sure the auxiliary needs a change also, but I don't see the connection between the Aux battery to MAF performance.
I will try to do that.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
710 Posts
I see no relationship between Aux battery health and MAF performance either. 🤷‍♂️

Interesting, I changed the main battery not long ago, I am sure the auxiliary needs a change also, but I don't see the connection between the Aux battery to MAF performance.
I will try to do that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
Your car could not be more different than mine BUT…

I have posted codes for P01xx series of DTC too. For my ‘15 AMG, the MAF they mean (there are at least 3 in my car) is the one on the throttle body in the back of the engine bay.

I am not so much familiar with your car, but it looks like you are targeting the sensor near the air filter.

All I am saying, is check to see if you have more than one on the intake system. if you got 2, consider checking the one closer to your block.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
710 Posts
Yep, that's why they've always pictured a throttle body on the can of CRC MAF spray. ;)
Your car could not be more different than mine BUT…

I have posted codes for P01xx series of DTC too. For my ‘15 AMG, the MAF they mean (there are at least 3 in my car) is the one on the throttle body in the back of the engine bay.

I am not so much familiar with your car, but it looks like you are targeting the sensor near the air filter.

All I am saying, is check to see if you have more than one on the intake system. if you got 2, consider checking the one closer to your block.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Your car could not be more different than mine BUT…

I have posted codes for P01xx series of DTC too. For my ‘15 AMG, the MAF they mean (there are at least 3 in my car) is the one on the throttle body in the back of the engine bay.

I am not so much familiar with your car, but it looks like you are targeting the sensor near the air filter.

All I am saying, is check to see if you have more than one on the intake system. if you got 2, consider checking the one closer to your block.
Oh good point indeed! Could you possibly take a look at the diagram and see If there are in fact 2 or more MAFS?
I am searching but honestly there seems like there is not enough information on that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
Part 170 is the MAF at the airbox.

Part 130 should be your coupler to the throttle body. I DON'T know if you have another MAF on the part that 130 connects to. it's another assembly drawing.

I would compare your part number to mine, but it's not listed in the parts list to the right on that site. My part that is responsible for P01xx codes is part number A 009 153 48 28. But it also says AMG on the part, so I'd be surprised if it was the same part. BUT, it is identical form factor. So maybe.

That said, I have a SEPARATE air sensor on MY airbox that is a different form factor, and different part number. But it seems unrelated to p01xx codes.

Again, I have three sensors: One at the airbox, one at the intercooler, one at the throttle body. It's the TB that posts p01xx. And my car is WAY different than yours, but there you go.

-------------------------

By the way, here is how I know which sensor posts what: I stop after my commute, and within 5-10 minutes, I unplug whatever sensor I will check. Replug after 30-60 seconds, then pull the DTC. no codes for the airbox sensor, but I get p0101 for the one at the TB. I get (I think?) P0248 for the intercooler (have to doublecheck that number, don't trust it, but it is a different code set for sure), and nothing for the airbox sensor.

So when I see a P0105, or p0106, or a p0101, I know which sensor to target.

I DON'T know if that troubleshooting methodology will work for you. But if you get to a place where the sensor is temporarily working, maybe try that. If I unplug and replug when the car is dead cold, I don't always get a code.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Whiterabbitt Really good explanation, thank you!
Today I cleaned the sensor very well with spray contact (The one right after the air box), took about 10 minutes to take it apart and put eveything back.
Went to the highway, accelerated on 4th gear, at about 3.2RPM the light check went on.
I guess the only solution will be now is to replace the Sensor itself (I would say that this is what they will do in the garage), but I was thinking, maybe changing the air filter could help? It has about 10k KM and it looks quite dirty.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top