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Hi Wayne,

To be honest, I've never replaced them myself. The official way is to disassemble the entire sunroof in order to replace it. But I have had also customers who pushed the entire carriage forward in the rail and then pushed the slides in with a little force.

Kind regards,
Sjoerd
You open the pano roof half way. This puts the pin that rides in the shoe-hole about 100mm back from the full closed position. That's maybe what, 30% open?

You'll notice the pin is almost exactly as wide as the track it rides in, which means it is not captured at all. If all 4 shoes are broken, the whole roof can double in height as the front assembly "unfolds". Which is how most of us discovered it broke to begin with (at 110+ kph :( )

Anyways, the first one goes in easy because there is enough side play to put the shoe in the track, move the pin out of the way, slide the shoe to float over the pin, then push the pin into the hole.

The diabolical part is getting that second shoe in. Now that the first pin is in, there is ZERO clearance between the remaining exposed pin and the track. It makes it impossible to install the second pin. There is roughly 1mm of play in the track at best if you try to flex it open to slide the second shoe in. It's a total no go.

That's why 'they say' you have to disassemble the whole assembly. So you can slide the roof off the end of the track, put the shoes on, then slide it back on. That's a nightmare of a procedure for all of us.

The solution, is to file a groove in the replacement shoe using a round file, maybe 1mm deep. Once you are looking at all the parts, with one shoe installed, and the second one ready to go, you'll know exactly where the groove needs to go.

Then you hammer it into place using a brass punch (or steel if you are careful) while prying gently on the track. The combo of the smallest bit of flex in the track combined with the groove in the shoe plus the force of pounding (using a non-marring punch) is enough to make the shoe slide past the pin. Only just. Seriously, only just.

Now you have the whole thing done for 12 bucks. But one shoe is weakened.

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How long with such an install last? no idea. My shoes broke because I opened the roof at 70 MPH on the freeway. That is a LOT of force on a big sail. Now that I have replaced them, I refrain from opening the roof on the freeway. I crack it open just fine because that's the backside, not the front. NBD.

I may have tried it once or twice just as a 'to heck with it' test, hasn't broken "yet". But yeah, it is what it is. But still, fully functional.

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I did all that for 12 bucks, and no breaks in 2+ years. Your product has to do that, with a better lifetime, without making users file their own groove in the part, and still convince your customers your part is better despite being thinner in one small section. And that that is worth > 100euro.
 

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Alp, I said this in the other thread.

The cost is too high if you have to disassemble the roof to replace it. If you want to justify the cost, you need more value-add than just 'unbreakable'. You need it to be installable in-situ.

IMO, that is the only way you can justify the price you are asking. And you have to include very clear, step-by-step instructions with pictures.

The tricky part, is that those instructions have to work for your product only, and not the OEM. Otherwise people will download your instructions and use the $12 OEM part and off they go.

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I do have a suggestion. As far as I can tell, the only way to install the OEM part in-situ is by weakening it by filing a groove in the part right at the weakest point. If that is truly the only way, then your part has an advantage because the weakest point is strengthened by that CF hoop. If you change your mold (too late, huh) to add the groove for install-ability, and demonstrate that it can be installed without disassembly, you can make the case that the OEM product can't be installed in place because you are necessarily weakening the part to get it to pass the pivot pin during install.

That means people can still buy the OEM and bypass your part, but are doing so with a part weaker than the OEM part that broke to begin with. That is a stronger case to buy your product. Even at 10 times the OEM cost.

Anyway, good luck with your product. I hope you sell enough of them to get noticed by MB, I hope you have IP on the concept, and I hope MB buys out your IP to incorporate as an OEM product moving forward. You'll have earned it for the idea.
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Hi Wayne.

That's the easy wait you will find to repair your sunroof.
I create this to repair and use the sunroof.
Witch is not too expensive and with 1 year warranty .
I don't know how much it cost in your country to repair this parts, but it France its minimum 1200 euros in a mercedes workshop.
Where are you living ?
If you are interesting i can send you the ebay link to buy it.
Best regards
 

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I'm in the USA. I know many have had a problem with their sunroof. That's one of the reasons we don't open ours. But for others on the Forum here any information you can supply would be great.
 

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This is the same for all owners with a sunroof.
I found this solution witch is very effective.
Many people here in France repair their sunroof with my solution and they save lot of money and they still can use the sunroof at least.
You have already the link if you want to order it and use your sunroof.
You can buy only one if only one side is broken on your sunroof.
Best regards
TTo
 

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Today I had a look in the WIS to see what the factory has, as far as preventative maintenance for the panoramic sunroof, and removals and other.
Turns out that there is a cleaning and lubricating procedure.
In this, a grease and a special lubricant are used and crosshatched sections have to be identified in the roof mechanism. Not difficult.
Turns out that there is an adjustment procedure. There is a tolerance of max 2 mm vs front and rear paneling. Once the adjustment is made, a teach-in procedure is done with the Xentry.
Turns out there is a procedure to remove the front glass cover. The front glass cover is the fixed area between the top of the windshield and the front edge of the panoramic sunroof.
Honestly, I didn't know that that strip was made out of glass..
It's complicated, requires a wire cutting tool, requires glazing of the replacement and feeler gauges to install.
There is a procedure to replace the sunroof guide rail. It is complicated, requires headliner removal and in the end requires xentry sunroof teach in.
Edit: Removing the headliner is not as complicated as I thought. If nothing gets stuck, there are only a few simple operations.
 

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Update on my GLA 250 sunroof. I took it to another Mercedes dealership for their opinion.They got it closed. Go figure.
Roof was sealed, motor was disconnected. Total bill $360. Big difference from the $6 estimate with no breakdown on costs.
My car is ready to pick up after a few hours. The other dealership had it for days.
 

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The motor was disconnected? So they basically disabled the sunroof? That would indicate that you still have a problem with the plastic block and the dealer "fixed" this by disabling operation. So we're not really comparing apples with apples.
 
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