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Yeah I was looking at Brembos online store. Quoted about the same for all around. I’m in Westchester. HBU?

I'm in the same boat. I've been comparing parts and prices from FCP Euro and Tirerack. Cheapest I've ran into is about $950 for front and rear for OEM. Where in NY are you maybe we can do a group brake install day. /forum/images/GLAOwners_2014/smilies/tango_face_smile.png
 

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Not too far from you in Queens. I read that our rotors are Brembo as OEM but the pads show to be Textar, not sure if that is also a Brembo subsidiary or different company.

Yeah I was looking at Brembos online store. Quoted about the same for all around. I’m in Westchester. HBU?

I'm in the same boat. I've been comparing parts and prices from FCP Euro and Tirerack. Cheapest I've ran into is about $950 for front and rear for OEM. Where in NY are you maybe we can do a group brake install day. /forum/images/GLAOwners_2014/smilies/tango_face_smile.png
 

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Great input, thanks everyone! Yeah I guess it is your own preference! I’m not a big fan of buying stuff from eBay so I think I’m going to skip on that. But going to check what everyone posted and make my decision

I'm not big on ebay either, but I guarantee you my post from several months back was from a reputable seller of real OEM MB parts. the boxes were a bit rough, but they were housed in all OEM packaging within the boxes shipped to me, all MB stuff no doubt, exactly like what is on my car now. The parts themselves are clearly stamped with all proper MB labels as I had been researching this for awhile. Bought at Xmas and got the ebay extra 10% and basically saved roughly $400 off OEM price I would have paid had I bought at dealer.
 

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At 15k miles i replaced just the front pads with hawks for improved performance, it didn't work very well. At 25k the rotors were not smooth and pressing the brake pedal produced muffled grinding. I replaced the rotors with brembos from partsgeak for $85 each and oem pads for $200. Works much better now. I'm not sure what to do about the rears, although they are fine now. Even with the parking brake off and the car in brake maintenance mode i couldn't get the pistons to retract, are they just pressed in like the fronts? I had some idea that they needed to be spun in
 

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At 15k miles i replaced just the front pads with hawks for improved performance, it didn't work very well.
Which Hawk pad did you buy? The ceramic?

I just bought a full round of Brembo pads and rotors for the E350 at 110,000 miles. Wife's car. $565 total for everything for all 4 corners.

My GLA45 won't need brakes for a while yet, but Hawks are at the top of the list.
 

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Do you think your poor performance was the result of a pad-only upgrade? For the track racers around me, they ONLY replace pads and rotors together. (And drive them till the rotors are destroyed). I had planned to sheeple right along this path. If they only do pads and rotors together, could pads only lead to performance problems?
 

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Do you think your poor performance was the result of a pad-only upgrade? For the track racers around me, they ONLY replace pads and rotors together. (And drive them till the rotors are destroyed). I had planned to sheeple right along this path. If they only do pads and rotors together, could pads only lead to performance problems?
Generally if pads only are replaced the rotors needs to be thoroughly cleaned so that you can bed in the new pads.

But the original question was for help removing the rear brakes. It sounds like everything has been done correctly to release the brakes. I'm not smart enough to make suggestions beyond that. Anybody else?
 

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Which Hawk pad did you buy? The ceramic?
Not sure, but not the ceramics. I should definitely have replaced the rotors at the time, they had a kind of uneven surface developing. The back breaks i had to take to the independent mechanic and had the hawk pads installed and they work fine. I was going to get these race pads called pagid rs29 but they are quite expensive and you have to front and back at the same time or just the fronts would throw off the balance.
 

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They only have two compounds, HPS5.0 and Performance Ceramic. If yours were not Ceramic, they are HPS5.0.

any comment on stopping power between 15k and 25k?
 

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They only have two compounds, HPS5.0 and Performance Ceramic. If yours were not Ceramic, they are HPS5.0.

any comment on stopping power between 15k and 25k?
I conducted a flawed test as the front rotors were suspect so the setup never really worked correctly. I bedded in the new ones on the 280 in the slow lane 40 mph to 80 then brake like 10 times, i'm sure i got some nasty looks.
 

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I wonder what the trick was for the rear calipers? I haven't searched online for anything, but hopefully there will be something out there when it's time for me to do the maintenance. Might be a while though at my current pace!

This also makes me think I should do some good baseline tests to check the stopping ability of the stock brakes and tires. Just to use as a comparison for any changes. If I get the new wheels and track tires It'll be good for that too. I live outside the city, so applying dynamite to the brake pedal isn't an issue out here, ha ha ha!
 

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I wonder what the trick was for the rear calipers? I haven't searched online for anything, but hopefully there will be something out there when it's time for me to do the maintenance. Might be a while though at my current pace!

This also makes me think I should do some good baseline tests to check the stopping ability of the stock brakes and tires. Just to use as a comparison for any changes. If I get the new wheels and track tires It'll be good for that too. I live outside the city, so applying dynamite to the brake pedal isn't an issue out here, ha ha ha!
See ...

 

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I conducted a flawed test as the front rotors were suspect so the setup never really worked correctly. I bedded in the new ones on the 280 in the slow lane 40 mph to 80 then brake like 10 times, i'm sure i got some nasty looks.
Well, I guess I might be the tester then for this forum, but I'm not due for brakes for another 10k miles or more, I am sure.

So, I see you are in the SF bay area, I'm by 280/880. If you drive a grey 45 with the wing, I've seen you once on Bascom. Anyway, I talked to a buddy of mine, he beds his brakes on Monterey highway south of SJ so that he can get up to 100 and brake hard to near or at 0. As you know, that road is very empty most of the time.
 

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i live in oakland but work in san jose. we should have a gla45 meet up for all the bay area folks some time. what mileage are you at? i'm trying to plan ahead for the brake change. i'm at 18k but mostly highway miles.
 

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I've got a two post lift (in a tight garage) and am happy to assist with DIY but being in San Rafael I am a bit of a distance from you.
 

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So, I see you are in the SF bay area, I'm by 280/880. If you drive a grey 45 with the wing, I've seen you once on Bascom. Anyway, I talked to a buddy of mine, he beds his brakes on Monterey highway south of SJ so that he can get up to 100 and brake hard to near or at 0. As you know, that road is very empty most of the time.
No not me, i could never have a wing lol. I wonder if i didn't get enough heat in the brakes, i might have to do it again. In the wavecepter vid the discs are bright orange🔥
 

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I'm not big on ebay either, but I guarantee you my post from several months back was from a reputable seller of real OEM MB parts. the boxes were a bit rough, but they were housed in all OEM packaging within the boxes shipped to me, all MB stuff no doubt, exactly like what is on my car now. The parts themselves are clearly stamped with all proper MB labels as I had been researching this for awhile. Bought at Xmas and got the ebay extra 10% and basically saved roughly $400 off OEM price I would have paid had I bought at dealer.
These are your guys elsewhere in their Large store
 

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But the original question was for help removing the rear brakes. It sounds like everything has been done correctly to release the brakes. I'm not smart enough to make suggestions beyond that. Anybody else?
ok so i answered my own question, the rear pistons simply push out after you release the ebrake and press call/ok to set the electronics up for pad replacement. I was a bit nervous at the road test as there was a very slight rub noise but after i tightened down the wheel lugs a bit more it has disappeared
 

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best price I can find for rotors an pads:

Best price I can find for the pads and rotors is alacarte




total: $983

That assumes I want Hawk HPS5.0 pads in the front and OEM's in the rear. It's a leap of faith that Hawks are going to be a performance upgrade to OEM. Also doesn't include the brake sensor. Also doesn't include brake fluid. Not sure if there are any other considerations I'm missing.
 
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