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There is always the risk of the dealership claiming that an aftermarket mod will void your warranty. I believe that the mod has to be directly related to the installation. I don't see how adding a hitch would affect the powertrain or the electrical system but I suppose anything is possible. This issue keeps coming up. I think it is time to start a thread as to how many users have actually run across this problem. Could be an urban myth. I agree with Ammoduc completely. Add what you want and enjoy your ride!
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Thanks for the Support. I've been to Uhaul to rent a car dolly to tow a Toyota Tercel. UHaul looks up in the computer system asks me a few questions and a few hours later I'm towing the Toyota Tercel back home. If users want to wait until their warranty expires before installing one I completely understand but If that worry is not an issue then feel free to install it and enjoy your ride. I get looks from people and I feel the look is meant to tell me "I didn't think Mercedes where make for towing" The specs on the gla250 for towing are clear and they are very strong for towing so aside from the warranty thing I see no reason for anyone not to do the mod. I live in Orage County SoCal and if anyone lives close to me wants to do the mod just let me know Ill meet you somewhere close and you can see how I did mine.
 

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Just had a Draw Tite Max-Frame Hitch installed by a local trailer/hitch dealership in VT. They did need to trim the heat shield. Since I am not sure what it is shielding in the area to be trimmed I don't know if that will become an issue. I am looking forward to bringing home hay bales and lumber with my 6 X 10 utility trailer. I did not have the technical skills to do it myself. The only minor concern I have is that the connector is in the trunk and has to be run out the back of the rear hatch to be used. Installer felt that it would be less exposure to the elements which makes sense. The hatch seems to close without a problem so it will remain to be seen if there is any damage to the wiring harness over time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
The heat shied he spoke of is a thin metallic shield that keeps the heat from the exhaust system away from the trunk. I bent mine in place but did not cut out the small peace needed. It causes me no problem and I can always trim it if Id like. My suggestion is to go my route with the wiring harness. I'm in Cali so Snow won't be a problem but I also don't see how it can be a problem since the wiring harness has a rubber cover/cap. I would love to see some towing pictures and also expect it to pull straight and strong:D
 

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Pictures will be posted today!
 

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I realize this is an old post but looking into towing some more myself.

Ammoduc lots of great towing pics, curious what is the highest weight you feel you have towed on your GLA?

I have an 1800 lb boat I'm looking to tow around to other bodies of water. Just looking for some insight from experienced towers on the GLA.
 

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To answer my own question. The BRAKE light is tapped into the 3RD STOP on the hatch and the TAIL light should be tapped into the left (or right) tail also on the hatch itself.

Still don't understand why @Ammonduc spliced the brown ground wire from the 3RD STOP plug though
 

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Hello everybody, first time posting on this forum. Just picked up my 16 Gla 4matic a month ago or so and I'm already doing mods to it. So far I have the peal commander and the Curt Hitch now I just finished installing the Curt Wiring Harness and I will be posting some pictures of how I did it. I am sure there are several different ways of doing this but I did it my way and I'm sure it's not the best but I does work and it looks clean. I will be adding some pics shortly.

I would have just connected to something like:


and plugged into the rear 12V power receptacle when towing and remove the adapter when not towing. The reason for this is that if you are powering something of this receptacle when the car is running, it is still hot when you turn the car off.

Just run the black to the power on the converter and ground the adapter to the same ground as the adapter is on.
 

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Towing my seadoo.
I understand this was posted in 2016 however was wondering if you can say how much of a rise that tow ball riser is please? I have located retails for 2" and 4" rise.

Seems yours is pretty "universal for your trailers.

Renting a camper this week and would like to be prepared. Anyone wanna throw their hat in on this one? (if I could actually decide which camper I could just ask what the level height is but alas, there are many choices.)

Thanks!!
 

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Ok here we go gang. First I purchased the following parts from amazon:

Wiring Harness:
Amazon.com: CURT 56146 Powered 3-to-2-Wire Splice-in Trailer Tail Light Converter, 4-Pin Wiring Harness : Automotive

Hitch:
Amazon.com: CURT 13197 Class 3 Trailer Hitch, 2-Inch Receiver, Compatible with Select Infiniti QX30, Mercedes-Benz GLA250, GLA45 AMG: Automotive


I began by removing the rear floor panel as well as the rear plastic molding. I also removed both tail lights. I used the Negative point seen on the picture and the positive from the rear 12V outlet on the rear of the cargo bay. I ran all lights to there respective lights as seen on the pictures and ran the harness under the car as seen by the pictures. Feel free to ask me any questions about this project as well as constructive criticism.
When you click on your link for the wiring harness it says in big red letters it is not the right one for your vehicle.Not for 2016 GLA-250. Are you sure this is the harness you used? Gla-250 is a multiplex wiring meaning one wire does multiple tasks so you don’t connect 4 wires just 3.
 

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Ammoduc (et als), thank you for the detailed information and pics. I have two questions if you don't mind.

First, is there a reason a powered converter must be used for the wiring harness? Admittedly the last time I wired one was a 70s GM product, splice in and go. ;)

Second, since it's recommended to reseal the compartment as part of the installation, does that mean you definitely want to install the harness adapter as part of the hitch install? Initially we're just going to have a bike carrier and platform, so I wasn't going to deal with wiring unless we decide to get a trailer. How much additional work would be involved to do the wiring after-the-fact, especially as far as running it to a connection location near the hitch after everything's reassembled?

Many thanks for your time and cogent replies. Stay healthy out there and enjoy the towed ride! :D
 

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While you're waiting for an official reply, as I understand things ...

The CANBus has lighting information on it. The wrong resistance at the lights will result in an error. So you are warned if a bulb burns out, or if a bulb is added. The converter prevents errors.

The hitch seal is critical to avoid water intrusion into the frame that could cause rust and catastrophic failure or safety hazard.

I wouldn't think it would create extra work to do the wiring later.
 
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