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Sounds good, if you don't feel the difference you might want to reset your ECU adaptations as well (throttle adaptations, ECU adaptations, etc). As for whiterabbit, I would not suggest you put the OEM downpipe back on, it will create too much back Press for stage 2 and will damage your turbo. Stage 2 is only for high flow or catless DP. You can restrict the air before the system (air filter) but not after (downpipe / exhaust), that's very dangerous for the car. Changing your air filter will not affect or damage your car in any way with the current tune. Tunes are not perfect, and unless the tuner knows this platform very well, they will not be able to properly adjust how the computer behaves with that bigger inlet. This is because you're not just changing the AFR, there are all those PCV lines going to the intake and you have to change the sensor readings on those and more. It's a much more complex system than a Honda. The stock silicon air intake tube is designed in a way where those 3 inlets are directed at a certain angle to read the air intake numbers correctly and adjust the breather system. The mishimoto silicon hose in their intake kit does not turn one of those hoses to 90° as the stock one does. This could be affected the data that the car reads and spit that code out. You might have to stick with the OEM intake hose and just change the intake portion of it, but then you won't get that smooth flow that the mishimoto hose gives you. You can see in the stock image the inlet for one of the hoses how it's pointed towards the intake, but on the mishimoto hose, the holes are just drilled straight in towards the bottom. No rerouting is done like the OEM. I haven't seen an aftermarket smooth flow silicone that fixes this issue with the 90° inlet for the hose. It could be possible to tune it right, but from what I've seen, the tuners that fix this issue are usually working with stock inlet hose. Only the air filter is upgraded (with a bigger diameter) like the AMS one and other similar ones.

Mishimoto / MST hose:




Stock hose:



AMS filter
 

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Hi everyone, quick update. I may have finally solved my P1CE700 issue. I changed my spark plugs again but this time I did not re-gap them like the last 2 tuners told me to. I kept them as they are from factory. The car runs a lot smoother now and revs to 6.3k rpm before changing gears on its own in race mode. Before, it wouldn't go over 6k rpm. I have not gotten the code so far and car feels alive. So maybe it was the spark plugs all along. I've switched them out probably 3 times but every single time I regapped them to the specs that tuners told me to (0.024 and 0.022), and I've always received the P1CE700 code. I also have a forged oil catch can installed and I noticed that there was lots of blowby, mostly unburnt fuel. The smaller gap on the spark on the high revs probably didn't ignite the fuel, causing it to blow by and the oil separator was doing a good job in separating oil from the fuel, and only letting the fuel go in the catch can. Anyways, I cleaned up everything, changed the spark plugs, I also had a low capacity battery code so I changed the main battery and now the car runs amazing. Shifts are faster and clean, no codes, and revs higher than before (holds power on high rev too). I will keep everyone posted if this is the final solution or if I still need to adjust tuning a bit more for airflow.
 
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