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can you feel the soft limp mode, or is it more like dropping from 435 HP down to 375? Have you verified that the presence of P1CE700 100% causes a drop in power so long as it is active?

I'd also like to know if you've had your car on the dyno for your stage 2 and have a sense of the power and torque curves on your custom map. If so, are you able to share?
You can definitely feel the power drop in terms of torque. Your car would feel lousy when you suddenly gas it, even if it's at 5k rpm with boost ready to kick down, it feels like it slowly builds up instead of instant kickdown (when the code is not present/ clear). It feels like it's coming down by 20-30 whp and even more on torque. Shifting is also very lousy. You'll know when you have that code if you drive the car very often.

I haven't dynoed the car after I got the custom stage 2 tune but with the mods that I have and code is cleared, it should hit that 400whp mark. I have pretty much all the Bolt-ons that exist for this car, except for turbo and HPFP, that's stage 3.
 

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Actually its a 2.0 liter motor i mean 1991cc to be exact but its considered a 2.0. Yes its does make over 200hp per liter in stock form, but only in the newer 45S model the 2013-2015 made 360hp which makes it 180hp per liter the 2016-2019 made 375 to 381hp making it 187- 190.5hp per liter. They do come stock with 27psi and are finely tuned machines. Now with all that said i installed a bigger pure turbo, run less boost and make more power. The engine isnt under as much stress, air doesnt heat up as much, and things are safer. As for coolers i have only upgraded the intercooler rad as i felt that was the only one needed. Havent had this P1CE700 code as of yet. An been running this combo for 40k+ on a 2016 an approaching 90k. Bigger redstar ultra high flow cat, mishimoto intake, alpha hpfp, wagner intercooler rad, 3in exhaust, turbo blanket, extrode honed exhaust manny. Car runs great an i go wot all the time through 4th and 5th sometimes without an issue. I am custom tuned by Jerry at euro. I have replaced all my spark plugs with stock ngks didnt touch the gap went with stock and new coils from mercedes. Ill look into this some more see if i notice anything. I wouldnt worry to much bout the timing chain least nkt til 150k or more. Not a common fail or problem area, never heard of one in fact. Pcv can be in issue but if ur running quality oil and changing regularly should stay unclogged. Some of the other things havent had any dealings with
 

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Actually its a 2.0 liter motor i mean 1991cc to be exact but its considered a 2.0. Yes its does make over 200hp per liter in stock form, but only in the newer 45S model the 2013-2015 made 360hp which makes it 180hp per liter the 2016-2019 made 375 to 381hp making it 187- 190.5hp per liter. They do come stock with 27psi and are finely tuned machines. Now with all that said i installed a bigger pure turbo, run less boost and make more power. The engine isnt under as much stress, air doesnt heat up as much, and things are safer. As for coolers i have only upgraded the intercooler rad as i felt that was the only one needed. Havent had this P1CE700 code as of yet. An been running this combo for 40k+ on a 2016 an approaching 90k. Bigger redstar ultra high flow cat, mishimoto intake, alpha hpfp, wagner intercooler rad, 3in exhaust, turbo blanket, extrode honed exhaust manny. Car runs great an i go wot all the time through 4th and 5th sometimes without an issue. I am custom tuned by Jerry at euro. I have replaced all my spark plugs with stock ngks didnt touch the gap went with stock and new coils from mercedes. Ill look into this some more see if i notice anything. I wouldnt worry to much bout the timing chain least nkt til 150k or more. Not a common fail or problem area, never heard of one in fact. Pcv can be in issue but if ur running quality oil and changing regularly should stay unclogged. Some of the other things havent had any dealings with
 

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It sounds to me that your car is finely tuned so that's nice. How much HP are you running right now? And are you using methanol? Timing chain problem can be heard on a cold start very clearly. It would sound like a terrible rattle until your oil reaches at least 60c, then the noise goes away.
 

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Yeah timing chain is a noticable problem if its happening. Im an ASE tech with mercedes, audi, bmw, jag, chevy an ford. One of the many reasons i chose this platform was how well its built haha. Right now the highest im dynoed is 443 whp. My mileage is round 18-20 town cus i drive like a bat outta **** but free way throw in comfort an it gets in the 30s. I have HP tuners as well an downloaded the tune that Jerry did an can tweak it here an there. Highly recommend hp tuners for anyone looking to watch their tune and make any small tweaks. But hp only has access to limited tables so still recommend gettin a custom tune by a good tuner that know these cars. Eurocharged is amazing an they helped develope the turbo im using so it was a no brainer. Meth isnt on the car yet but is a possibility in the future.
 

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You can definitely feel the power drop in terms of torque. Your car would feel lousy when you suddenly gas it, even if it's at 5k rpm with boost ready to kick down, it feels like it slowly builds up instead of instant kickdown (when the code is not present/ clear). It feels like it's coming down by 20-30 whp and even more on torque. Shifting is also very lousy. You'll know when you have that code if you drive the car very often.
back up, lets talk this one out more, great topic.

Are you sure the car driving lousy is a result of this code and not something else? I am not convinced this code alone will cause driving lousy. Once this code is triggered, it is triggered. So, car should drive lousy 100% of the time once the code is set to when the code is clear? (Lousy as in during warmed up and WOT of course)

in otherwords, if I suggested a car could have this code set and not be lousy “all” the time when punching it, is there a consisted explanation for that behavior, in your opinion?

or to the point, I can set this code. I’ve not scrutinized it much, but will more now. I track it with this code set. Including my last trip on Dec7. I haven’t noticed a “consistent“ loss of power. There are always times when the car decides to drive different than I’m asking it to, since it’s drive by wire. Is it P1CE700? I can’t believe it, unless the code self clears?

I have dynoed my original stage 2, unfortunately I don’t know the state of this code at that time, so I have no real refuting data except my butt dyno.

but coming down 20-30% in power is 5-8%. I’m not sure I’d feel that? For sure I feel dropping to 355 bhp, not certain I’d feel going from 435 brake to 400 brake?

So, maybe you are right and my car is lousy and only giving me 400 bhp and big torque loss and I don’t know it? Or P1CE700 needs something else besides to cut the power? (Or not even related to that code)

interesting toppic for sure. Especially since the dealer tried to nail me for pcv replacement 1-2 years ago. I was saved by literally a WW shortage of parts. But doesn’t change that I stumbled on this code recently, so it’s there for me do deal with. Or not…
 

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I looked and noticed that this code is in fact in my cars computer but is just pending and has been there for almoat 20k i clear it with hptuners but it wont clear must need to be cleared by the dealer for some reason. But it hasnt ever done anything to make me think its causing power to be taken from it cus sure dknt act like it.
 

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The P1CE700 code causes soft limp mode, just like if the exhaust flap code is activated, the car knows not to go all out on power since there is a risk in reduced flow meaning lots of back-pressure (for the exhaust code). As long as that P1CE700 code is shown on the computer pending or current, your car will reduce torque. As for "feeling" this limp mode, you have to know your car really well. I daily drive mine for about 1.5 years so I know it very very well. For you to feel it, drive with this code for a while (2+ weeks) and then clear the code, you will definitely notice the jump in torque (what would feel like "instant" power compared to before). If anyone has this code constantly come up after clearing it multiple times, the first thing I would try is to put your stock intake back and drive it for a while to see if the code comes up. If not, then the problem is 100% the tune not compensating for the bigger inlet air filter (airflow). I don't have any other codes with mine, just the P1CE700.
 

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Wow well mine has the code pending an made 443 whp an 450+ torque at the wheels lol. It hasnt cleared and wont clear so idk what the reason is that it wont clear but it doesnt. So it isnt effecting my power much from the looks of things lol
 

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I think for you it would be the tune that's not perfect, it needs to be adjusted for that intake that you have. Your car will be much more noticeable in power since you're stage 3. The spool will be faster and if you're at 5k RPM and punch it, it will instantly bash your head to the seat. But with the code, it takes half a second before full torque is applied to the car. It would make more torque than what you have right now and spool faster if you clear that code.
 

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So i have hptuners an can adjust most anything if i know what to adjust lol. Only thing i saw that may made sense was air filter loss and in the stage 2 tune it had 5.0 and 7.0 in the upper end in the new stage 3 tune its 4.9 and 6.9 but i wouldnt know where to begin. Also i do have a spare cloned computer an i installed that one and the pending code is still there an cant be cleared. If you have any suggestions im totally game. I did send a message to jerry at euro asking about the pending code with a pic but havent heard back. Heres the pending my hptuners shows in the attached pic. But i used my handheld reader and it showed nothing ugh. The cars running great but **** if i can get more im game.
 

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So I don't know much about tuning but most people who had no physical component issues like PCV or all the other stuff I mentioned had fixed this code and said it was due to the tune not well adjusted for the bigger inlet in the aftermarket air filter. The car thinks it's getting way too much air and spits out a crankcase ventilation on WOT malfunction code. And it makes sense, if the engine is not expecting this much air to enter the system, it doesn't increase the breathing of the PCV, creating more positive pressure in the crankcase than it likes, and then now reduces the overall airflow coming into the engine so it doesn't go over the expected values. This would affect spool times, making the car feel a bit laggy and shifting won't feel crispy either. Since spool is slowed down a bit, your top end torque is also reduced, and torque is what you feel, not power. It's just a disadvantage when you race someone on a roll race, your car doesn't leave when you punch it, it takes about 0.5 seconds to fully engage power, more like a pickup in power than instant power (if you're in the boost range like 5k+ rpm)
 

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Thats whats weird i switched computers and then downloaded the new tune an the code was there pending and i hadnt even started it yet. As for roll it downshifts immediately and pulls too redline and dont feel like its leavin anything off the table. I dont know hopefully my tuner can shed some light. It spools pretty fast for a bigger turbo too. Hummmm well didnt think to much bout it til this thread so see what i can figure out.
 

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There are so many threads that you can find that blame air filter for this code. There's one in a german forum that I remember seeing, ill link it below but you need to have page translate on and look at Susan99's post, and that's when I knew that it isn't just the PCV that causes this issue, especially since I had my entire PCV system replaced 3 months ago and I'm still getting the error lol. My buddy who has a 2018 CLA 45 is running the stage 2 eurocharged off the shelf tune also has this code and he has the mishimoto intake. Apparently it makes a huge difference on stage 2, about half a second 100-200km, and thats a lot for a pending code. I can only imagine what it will do on Stage 3.

 

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first of all, 445 whp good grief that car must fly. My stage 2 is 345 whp which is consistent with what I see online for people with cats running pump gas. Anyone in the 350-380 seems to be running race gas, no cat, or both. Anyway, that's neither here nor there (just raising my eyebrow at a 445 stage 3 (that car must be super fun)

Anyway, I too am starting to monitor this code. I don't use HP tuners, I use an Inova unit recently purchased. it is now under my interest because my new OBD reader has a "special menu" and this shows up. So it never showed in my previous reader, had no idea it was persistently there. Now I can check and monitor for it.

Mine clears easily and stays clear. I'm easing into the car to see at what point it comes back. All driving less than WOT is GTG for me. Next step is to check WOT when the car is good and warmed up. After that to check WOT when the car has only warmed for a bit, 15 min or so. Then I'll check a track day where it spends half the day getting beat on repeatedly :).

I'm hearing you about the drop in performance, I really am. I daily drive my GLA, I have since 2018, and I've put 50,000 miles on the car. I know what it feels like :). I'm not doubting it, I'm just trying to flesh out what soft limp really means functionally, because it's so much less clear cut than a hard limp mode. I will continue to experiment as well. Including going back to the OEM filter or tune if I have to. I will be running the OEM tune this summer anyways for compliance reasons, so that test will come as well.

But I have to believe that weistec ("canned" tune, but they 'build' a 'canned' tune for your car) must consider this code and compensate for it. surely they would not enjoy the reputation they do if they were known to provide bogus tunes. Anyways, stimulus, response. All about the data. I'll not have anything new or good to come back with for awhile due to the rains (car runs GREAT in the rain, I just have no runway because of other people!) but if I get better detail of P1CE700 occurrence in my car, I'll post it here for you guys and others.
 

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Yeah it does fly its quite a fun car and i do use a mix of 100 octane which is pump here and 93. I will be puttin on meth so i dont have to mix it anymore ill just run straight 93 an meth/water. I have a cat too but my cat is insanely high flowing i got it from redstar with my downpipe but cost a pretty penny but it flows almost as good as when i was without a cat and no codes. I may run to mercedes and have my buddy clear the pending to see what it does or if it comes back. Something isnt quite right considering when i changed computers uploaded the tune and without starting the car the pending code was there already an havent even started the car. So that doesnt even make sense. Shouldnt be there until i at least start the car and it trips it.

I love my hptuners i cant do as much as say eurocharged but i can go in an make some changes to like spark, afr, boost, torque management and several other things.
 

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Yeah I would say the first thing to do is get rid of that code. I don't think your ODB module is clearing it right. That code should not come up when your car is off. If it doesn't clear, you need to use the dealer program to clear it or any good Mercedes ODB tool, which those are expensive so I'd recommend borrowing one from someone. Once you clear it, go for a drive and see the difference.
 

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@Whiterabbitt I'd recommend you first put the stock intake back and see if that code will come back after a month's use. If not then you need to adjust your tune for more airflow. I will be doing a dyno session sometime next month with all my stage 2+ bolt-ons and cleared code, and will share the data here.
 

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The thing that doesn't make sense about that suggestion, while I understand the explanation, is that there is a stage 2 tune on it currently. What is the point of running a stage 2 tune if I put the OEM downpipe back in, OEM air filter, etc? I know you are saying airbox only, but from a mile-high view you're saying run the stage 2 tune on de-optimized supporting mods as a form of troubleshooting. conceptually, I'm not sure I understand the approach.

Don;t get me wrong, I may try it as it's a heck of a lot easier than getting the downpipe out, but I think I need to spend more time thinking about what I'd actually get out of that datapoint.

It almost makes more sense (in my head) to test by swapping my redstar downpipe with a catless tube. But even that approach needs thinking about...
 

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Have any of you had the P1CE700 diagnosed at a dealer or somewhere with STAR diagnostics? P1CE700 is NOT the PCV valve/oil separator operation, that’s P052E. I had P1CE700 in my first 45 which was CPO at the time so it was warrantied, but the fix was a whole assembly that included the coolant reservoir under the engine cover. I had some rubbing on the hoses under the engine cover, maybe it was a vacuum leak? But also maybe the side intercooler (charge air cooler) isn’t functioning correctly? PN 1330900014 is the side intercooler (charge air cooler) and 1332000285 is the top reservoir, and I know with certainty that the top reservoir was replaced in the job.. looks like the charge air cooler is part of this assembly.
 
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