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The PTP seems to be the best on the market right now and you certainly pay a good price for it but its worth it. My downpipe is ceramic coated and so I have yet to wrap it but I have not had the same issues as the OP. I just like to read to see if i can help or if something happens in the future. When I got the car I replaced all the coils, plugs, and plug boots. I will say the massive heat of the turbo so close to the plug boots and coils can and will eventually cause issues. I noticed not only were the boots insanely a PITA to get off but 2 were cracked and damaged. I added some extra heat protection and some anti-seize to hopefully make it easier to remove in the future. I would recommend a 30K replacement of the boots if you want to stay in top notch shape.

Currently Im running the Alpha downpipe, 3 inch midpipe to the AMG exhaust, Mishimoto intake, Pure 550 turbo, AMS hpfp, and custom tuned with HP tuners. Making round 30PSI limit with the crap gas we have round here but i do have a 36PSI tune I can load if I fill it with 100 octane.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Sounds awesome! If you think your ceramic coating is good, I dare you to touch it when hot, I CAN touch the wrap on my DP when hot. You may consider wrapping yours anyways. Can't hurt.
 

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Sounds awesome! If you think your ceramic coating is good, I dare you to touch it when hot, I CAN touch the wrap on my DP when hot. You may consider wrapping yours anyways. Can't hurt.
I don't think the ceramic coating is great haha but it does help, I may wrap the upper part of it but I am not removing that PITA dp again haha. also the alpha does come with an extra little heat shield that probably does nothing but heck every little bit helps right. My buddy works for Swain coatings and if I take it back out I may send it off to them to get this process done, then wrap over it White Lightning Exhaust Coatings – Swain Tech Coatings | Industrial Coatings | High Performance Racing Coatings . I also like the way that Alpha went about building their downpipes versus other vendors. The pipes themselves feature 4mm thick cast stainless steel upper and lower section to retain as much heat in the down pipe as possible and as can see by the picture the upper part does come with a little head shield wrapped round it. It cost a bit more than some of the others but I like the construction and the pieces used. Same reason i went with the mishimoto intake it seems they were the only one to do real world research. I also was very impressed to see that the inlet they use to mount the turbo to the airbox is very similar to Weistecs W.4 setup.

On another note when you installed your turbo blanket did you retain the stock heat shield as well?? I did I figured the more the better but dont know if it would work better without it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
As you said, every bit helps. I was able to rewrap mine (Pressure washer destroyed it) from the turbo down to the O2 sensor without removing it. The first time I tried to wrap it without removing it. Removing it isn't that hard, it's removing the radiator fan that's a real pain.
 

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Well, to be honest, I don't know specifically which remedy provided the solution. I really believe it was a heat issue related to high temps. I believe it was the high heat from the turbo area causing problems with my coils
I replaced all my coils, and plugs, wrapped the DP, removed the engine cover, and got a turbo blanket. Problem is gone!
Did you replace the spark plugs with OEM plugs or something different? What plugs did you have before that? What's the model of the plugs you're using now?

Thank again.
 

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I used the NGK plugs, don't recall which ones, but they were specific to my car.
I also have a turbo blanket so that's out of the picture. There are pretty much two NGK spark plugs for this car. The one that OEM uses is SILZKFR8G7S. The other ones that are aftermarket is SILZKFR8D7S, which I had installed and had this code. I also have brand new NGK ignition coils. I just picked up a pair of the OEM plugs and I'll be switching it out soon. I have no idea what the difference between the D and G are. Did you get yours from the dealership? Also did you gap them?
 

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I also have a turbo blanket so that's out of the picture. There are pretty much two NGK spark plugs for this car. The one that OEM uses is SILZKFR8G7S. The other ones that are aftermarket is SILZKFR8D7S, which I had installed and had this code. I also have brand new NGK ignition coils. I just picked up a pair of the OEM plugs and I'll be switching it out soon. I have no idea what the difference between the D and G are. Did you get yours from the dealership? Also did you gap them?
Have not dealt with so much as an oil level check on this car,
but have a good bit of tweaking the MZR which needed much help in fueling, the KO-4, and oem DP.
but the stock COP ignition stays in place way past streetable power levels.

an denso ITV -22's are soup de jeur. gap to .022~024, use a wire gauge, an a soft touch.

picked this from an old MSF post

Denso Iridium
  • itv-20: Stock heat range
  • itv-22: 1 stage colder heat range

you'll need a crossover for the denso fit, stock heat range was good to 4~500 whp depending on meth use location,

that, accounting by 30% {15 for drive train, 15 for displacement} is, hehe 384.6

so, do a step colder, yeah?
 

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Well I just installed the OEM plugs SILZKFR8G7S and cleared the code. Drove the car hard for 2 hours, nothing came up and car felt fast. Then I resetted the adaptations and drove the car for 20 minutes hard and it came back. So I'm assuming clear it a couple of times and it should be good? What's everyone's 100-200 times on stage 2?
 

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I have a dumb question. The code you are getting is persistent and tells you the crank case vent has an issue? Have you considered having the crank case vent inspected?

Also I found this:


I think leaks are common in the 45, though I experienced boost leak codes, not crank case. Boost leak was a leak on the intake side. So maybe exhaust then? Like check your seals around the turbo and downpipe and exhaust? Did you fit the pipes well before you put the clamps back on? Is your O2 sensor loose on the DP? etc?
 

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I have a dumb question. The code you are getting is persistent and tells you the crank case vent has an issue? Have you considered having the crank case vent inspected?

Also I found this:


I think leaks are common in the 45, though I experienced boost leak codes, not crank case. Boost leak was a leak on the intake side. So maybe exhaust then? Like check your seals around the turbo and downpipe and exhaust? Did you fit the pipes well before you put the clamps back on? Is your O2 sensor loose on the DP? etc?
I honestly think it's my PCV system that's going bad. I have oil coming through the intake lines into my intake hose that leads to the turbo. Good news is that the gunk didn't go into the turbo. Cleaned it all up but I'm guessing that my PCV valve is either not fully opening or closing. So my engine is probably not breathing well on wide open throttle. I don't think I have much of a choice other than replacing the PCV system, which is very expensive. Anything else I can try before I go down this route? I have brand new spark plugs, coils, OEM fuel pump, oil replaced every 5k km, turbo heat shield wrap, Downpipe wrapped, mishimoto intake, etc.
 

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P1CE700 is related to the ventilation/PCV/breather system. The remedy is replacing the vacuum hoses. I forget what exactly all the parts are, but pretty sure it’s an assembly that includes the coolant expansion tank under the engine cover. I don’t think this one is the oil separator bc that’s P052E but the breather system is pretty involved in this car so it might mate into that part somewhere.

Have you done a compression test?

Any noticeable rubbing or other damage on the hoses wrapped in silver under the engine cover?
 

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P1CE700 is related to the ventilation/PCV/breather system. The remedy is replacing the vacuum hoses. I forget what exactly all the parts are, but pretty sure it’s an assembly that includes the coolant expansion tank under the engine cover. I don’t think this one is the oil separator bc that’s P052E but the breather system is pretty involved in this car so it might mate into that part somewhere.

Have you done a compression test?

Any noticeable rubbing or other damage on the hoses wrapped in silver under the engine cover?
The hoses look fine, no rubbing like I've seen on other people's. And these lines are part of the PCV system. I think the diaphragm in my PCV might be sticky because there was oil coming out if the big hose, there shouldn't be any oil at all. I also use 0w40. Is that oil too thin and will slide through the piston rings? Should I use 5w-40 instead? Have not done a compression test but believe me there's a lot of power in it. I just feel like holding the accelerator for 4 gears isn't as powerful as it should be on gear 4/5/6
 

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It's an octopus assembly, like $800 pre labor. 5-10 hours labor for install. My dealer quoted me $2700.

But the part was on backorder for more than 6 months....

Are you saying the PCV is puking oil into the intake because there is a "wetness" in the pipe? I believe that is normal ir so. Or at least, I have it too. I believe it's not an issue.

It's not DRIPPING or anything crazy. Just a super-mild indication of wetness.
 

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If you don’t have P052E then I wouldn’t totally count out the vent valve/oil separator but that’s like a $2k+ job. P052E is the code directly related to the fault in the vent valve and I wouldn’t replace unless you’re getting that code. As mentioned, a little bit of oil in the intake is normal. If you have it excessively around the oil filler neck when you take the engine cover off that could indicate PCV problems though.

P1CE700 might be the charge air cooler? The two systems (PCV & charge air) are connected and the charge air cooler mates to the top coolant reservoir so maybe that’s the assembly?
Output device Font Machine Gadget Event
 

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Mine leaked oil into my mishimoto intake hose and it was all gunked up, had to clean the inside of the hose. I don't think it's normal for it to leak an excessive amount of oil into the intake, that should be air only. The PCV system in these cars tend to go bad very often. I'm thinking of replacing the entire PCV system (oil separator & 3 hose lines) as I've literally tried absolutely everything and I'm still getting the code. If I replace it, I will also get an oil catch can to prevent the PCV system from going bad again. I know they're both very expensive (oil catch can + PCV system) but I'd rather do it once and never look at it again. I'm planning on pushing real power on this car so it has to be ready. I don't want the engine to blow up on stage 2 because it can't breath.
 

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I know it's been a while but I'm going to revive this forum post. I haven't posted in some time, but that also means I've done a lot since then. I've completely replaced my PCV system, new OEM plugs regapped, new coils. I am also running a custom stage 2 tune that compensates for the extra airflow from the mishimoto intake I have (since some people swear that P1CE700 is due to the tune not compensating for the extra airflow from bigger inlet). It's winter now, I am still getting the code here and there but not as often as I was in the summer. The temps are way colder now. After speaking to countless of mechanics, 45 owners pushing their cars, and many others who are experts in this platform, it seems like it is caused by a few things.

#1. Tune not adjusted for extra airflow if you have an aftermarket air filter. You need to talk to your tuner to adjust for extra airflow. Stay away from off the shelf tunes. Only custom tune your car to avoid many, many, many issues. I know from first hand experience. This is probably the most important advice here.

#2. Car overheats causing turbo wastegate to open and reduce torque, this then have a chain reaction and activates the P1CE700 code, which naturally puts the car in soft limp mode (reduced power and torque). You need to upgrade your center and side radiators, but the one that gets affected the most is the transmission cooler, which is located on the bottom of the front bumper. This is likely the reason to why your torque is reduced after holding WOT for 3+ gears, and it will trigger the code.

#3. Leaks in the PCV system. I would not change the PCV system unless I do and check every other step (as this is the most expensive repair). You can pressure + smoke test the system to see if there are any leaks. If not, look at the other remedies. The PCV valve can be stuck from gunk, which would require a complete PCV system replacement but do not do this until you do all the other steps.

#4. If your timing chain is starting to lose tension, it will trigger this code, especially when you give it juice. This is also another expensive repair so I would look at all the other remedies first.

#5. Your turbo wastegate actuator is starting to go bad, causing it to not close 100% on WOT, triggering the code. I would check if there is any play on your actuator. If there is, it would require the turbo to be taken out and repaired.

#6. Turbo vacuum pump is bad. It's also called pressure transducer. There are 2 inlets which means 2 hoses connect to it. It can be found behind your oil cap. I would take it out and blow on it. If you can blow through it, it's leaking and must be replaced. If it's blocked, it's working perfectly.

#7. Using non OEM spark plugs or incorrectly gapped spark plugs. A bad ignition coil will also cause this code to come up. These would 100% cause this code to trigger and put you in soft limp mode, especially when you get close to redline.

#8. If you get this code with the exhaust flap code, then the exhaust flap must be fixed or removed and put a module on the wire to disable it as this would also trigger the code.


In my case, the code is triggered because I'm overheating and my tune is not perfect. My fix would be to upgrade the transmission cooler and also fix the tune to adjust for more airflow and give the waterpump a more aggressive profile. The water pump is probably the biggest issue with this car, especially when you're tuned and going WOT for 3+ gears. Hopefully I helped everyone here, these are very sensitive cars so unless everything is perfect, it will put you in soft limp mode. It's a good and a bad thing. You can't blow it up as there are so many failsafes but it's also very annoying as the P1CE700 is such a generic code, it's hard finding the exact cause.

Good luck everyone!!
 

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can you feel the soft limp mode, or is it more like dropping from 435 HP down to 375? Have you verified that the presence of P1CE700 100% causes a drop in power so long as it is active?

I'd also like to know if you've had your car on the dyno for your stage 2 and have a sense of the power and torque curves on your custom map. If so, are you able to share?
 

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The 45 develops 200 HP per liter (it is a 1.9 liter motor). It has 27+ psi of boost. And a factory warranty.

In other words, this is a finely developed bit of engineering. I would expect changes to have ramifications. My hat is off to all of you who experiment!!!
 
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