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The PTP seems to be the best on the market right now and you certainly pay a good price for it but its worth it. My downpipe is ceramic coated and so I have yet to wrap it but I have not had the same issues as the OP. I just like to read to see if i can help or if something happens in the future. When I got the car I replaced all the coils, plugs, and plug boots. I will say the massive heat of the turbo so close to the plug boots and coils can and will eventually cause issues. I noticed not only were the boots insanely a PITA to get off but 2 were cracked and damaged. I added some extra heat protection and some anti-seize to hopefully make it easier to remove in the future. I would recommend a 30K replacement of the boots if you want to stay in top notch shape.

Currently Im running the Alpha downpipe, 3 inch midpipe to the AMG exhaust, Mishimoto intake, Pure 550 turbo, AMS hpfp, and custom tuned with HP tuners. Making round 30PSI limit with the crap gas we have round here but i do have a 36PSI tune I can load if I fill it with 100 octane.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Sounds awesome! If you think your ceramic coating is good, I dare you to touch it when hot, I CAN touch the wrap on my DP when hot. You may consider wrapping yours anyways. Can't hurt.
 

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Sounds awesome! If you think your ceramic coating is good, I dare you to touch it when hot, I CAN touch the wrap on my DP when hot. You may consider wrapping yours anyways. Can't hurt.
I don't think the ceramic coating is great haha but it does help, I may wrap the upper part of it but I am not removing that PITA dp again haha. also the alpha does come with an extra little heat shield that probably does nothing but heck every little bit helps right. My buddy works for Swain coatings and if I take it back out I may send it off to them to get this process done, then wrap over it White Lightning Exhaust Coatings – Swain Tech Coatings | Industrial Coatings | High Performance Racing Coatings . I also like the way that Alpha went about building their downpipes versus other vendors. The pipes themselves feature 4mm thick cast stainless steel upper and lower section to retain as much heat in the down pipe as possible and as can see by the picture the upper part does come with a little head shield wrapped round it. It cost a bit more than some of the others but I like the construction and the pieces used. Same reason i went with the mishimoto intake it seems they were the only one to do real world research. I also was very impressed to see that the inlet they use to mount the turbo to the airbox is very similar to Weistecs W.4 setup.

On another note when you installed your turbo blanket did you retain the stock heat shield as well?? I did I figured the more the better but dont know if it would work better without it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
As you said, every bit helps. I was able to rewrap mine (Pressure washer destroyed it) from the turbo down to the O2 sensor without removing it. The first time I tried to wrap it without removing it. Removing it isn't that hard, it's removing the radiator fan that's a real pain.
 

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Well, to be honest, I don't know specifically which remedy provided the solution. I really believe it was a heat issue related to high temps. I believe it was the high heat from the turbo area causing problems with my coils
I replaced all my coils, and plugs, wrapped the DP, removed the engine cover, and got a turbo blanket. Problem is gone!
Did you replace the spark plugs with OEM plugs or something different? What plugs did you have before that? What's the model of the plugs you're using now?

Thank again.
 

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I used the NGK plugs, don't recall which ones, but they were specific to my car.
I also have a turbo blanket so that's out of the picture. There are pretty much two NGK spark plugs for this car. The one that OEM uses is SILZKFR8G7S. The other ones that are aftermarket is SILZKFR8D7S, which I had installed and had this code. I also have brand new NGK ignition coils. I just picked up a pair of the OEM plugs and I'll be switching it out soon. I have no idea what the difference between the D and G are. Did you get yours from the dealership? Also did you gap them?
 

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I also have a turbo blanket so that's out of the picture. There are pretty much two NGK spark plugs for this car. The one that OEM uses is SILZKFR8G7S. The other ones that are aftermarket is SILZKFR8D7S, which I had installed and had this code. I also have brand new NGK ignition coils. I just picked up a pair of the OEM plugs and I'll be switching it out soon. I have no idea what the difference between the D and G are. Did you get yours from the dealership? Also did you gap them?
Have not dealt with so much as an oil level check on this car,
but have a good bit of tweaking the MZR which needed much help in fueling, the KO-4, and oem DP.
but the stock COP ignition stays in place way past streetable power levels.

an denso ITV -22's are soup de jeur. gap to .022~024, use a wire gauge, an a soft touch.

picked this from an old MSF post

Denso Iridium
  • itv-20: Stock heat range
  • itv-22: 1 stage colder heat range

you'll need a crossover for the denso fit, stock heat range was good to 4~500 whp depending on meth use location,

that, accounting by 30% {15 for drive train, 15 for displacement} is, hehe 384.6

so, do a step colder, yeah?
 

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Well I just installed the OEM plugs SILZKFR8G7S and cleared the code. Drove the car hard for 2 hours, nothing came up and car felt fast. Then I resetted the adaptations and drove the car for 20 minutes hard and it came back. So I'm assuming clear it a couple of times and it should be good? What's everyone's 100-200 times on stage 2?
 

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I have a dumb question. The code you are getting is persistent and tells you the crank case vent has an issue? Have you considered having the crank case vent inspected?

Also I found this:


I think leaks are common in the 45, though I experienced boost leak codes, not crank case. Boost leak was a leak on the intake side. So maybe exhaust then? Like check your seals around the turbo and downpipe and exhaust? Did you fit the pipes well before you put the clamps back on? Is your O2 sensor loose on the DP? etc?
 

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I have a dumb question. The code you are getting is persistent and tells you the crank case vent has an issue? Have you considered having the crank case vent inspected?

Also I found this:


I think leaks are common in the 45, though I experienced boost leak codes, not crank case. Boost leak was a leak on the intake side. So maybe exhaust then? Like check your seals around the turbo and downpipe and exhaust? Did you fit the pipes well before you put the clamps back on? Is your O2 sensor loose on the DP? etc?
I honestly think it's my PCV system that's going bad. I have oil coming through the intake lines into my intake hose that leads to the turbo. Good news is that the gunk didn't go into the turbo. Cleaned it all up but I'm guessing that my PCV valve is either not fully opening or closing. So my engine is probably not breathing well on wide open throttle. I don't think I have much of a choice other than replacing the PCV system, which is very expensive. Anything else I can try before I go down this route? I have brand new spark plugs, coils, OEM fuel pump, oil replaced every 5k km, turbo heat shield wrap, Downpipe wrapped, mishimoto intake, etc.
 

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P1CE700 is related to the ventilation/PCV/breather system. The remedy is replacing the vacuum hoses. I forget what exactly all the parts are, but pretty sure it’s an assembly that includes the coolant expansion tank under the engine cover. I don’t think this one is the oil separator bc that’s P052E but the breather system is pretty involved in this car so it might mate into that part somewhere.

Have you done a compression test?

Any noticeable rubbing or other damage on the hoses wrapped in silver under the engine cover?
 

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P1CE700 is related to the ventilation/PCV/breather system. The remedy is replacing the vacuum hoses. I forget what exactly all the parts are, but pretty sure it’s an assembly that includes the coolant expansion tank under the engine cover. I don’t think this one is the oil separator bc that’s P052E but the breather system is pretty involved in this car so it might mate into that part somewhere.

Have you done a compression test?

Any noticeable rubbing or other damage on the hoses wrapped in silver under the engine cover?
The hoses look fine, no rubbing like I've seen on other people's. And these lines are part of the PCV system. I think the diaphragm in my PCV might be sticky because there was oil coming out if the big hose, there shouldn't be any oil at all. I also use 0w40. Is that oil too thin and will slide through the piston rings? Should I use 5w-40 instead? Have not done a compression test but believe me there's a lot of power in it. I just feel like holding the accelerator for 4 gears isn't as powerful as it should be on gear 4/5/6
 

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It's an octopus assembly, like $800 pre labor. 5-10 hours labor for install. My dealer quoted me $2700.

But the part was on backorder for more than 6 months....

Are you saying the PCV is puking oil into the intake because there is a "wetness" in the pipe? I believe that is normal ir so. Or at least, I have it too. I believe it's not an issue.

It's not DRIPPING or anything crazy. Just a super-mild indication of wetness.
 

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If you don’t have P052E then I wouldn’t totally count out the vent valve/oil separator but that’s like a $2k+ job. P052E is the code directly related to the fault in the vent valve and I wouldn’t replace unless you’re getting that code. As mentioned, a little bit of oil in the intake is normal. If you have it excessively around the oil filler neck when you take the engine cover off that could indicate PCV problems though.

P1CE700 might be the charge air cooler? The two systems (PCV & charge air) are connected and the charge air cooler mates to the top coolant reservoir so maybe that’s the assembly?
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Mine leaked oil into my mishimoto intake hose and it was all gunked up, had to clean the inside of the hose. I don't think it's normal for it to leak an excessive amount of oil into the intake, that should be air only. The PCV system in these cars tend to go bad very often. I'm thinking of replacing the entire PCV system (oil separator & 3 hose lines) as I've literally tried absolutely everything and I'm still getting the code. If I replace it, I will also get an oil catch can to prevent the PCV system from going bad again. I know they're both very expensive (oil catch can + PCV system) but I'd rather do it once and never look at it again. I'm planning on pushing real power on this car so it has to be ready. I don't want the engine to blow up on stage 2 because it can't breath.
 
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