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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I won't be able to check the flap until Monday, but I'm anxious to check. You need nothing to run at Laguna Seca but a car and a helmet. All the instruction is included. Sunday is still available on Feb 28 with speedsf.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Interestingly, when the car is warm in Sport mode, the left side has very little coming out, but the right has lots of exhaust. My error code was P13C700 which is for the left rear exhaust gas flap.
 

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Smoking gun. I am 99.9% confident your left flap is not opening because the clock spring is broken. your exhaust is running at 55% capacity. Or whatever above 50% you get cause the flap is not a seal, it gets a smidge of leak by. And that the error code is because the broke clockspring bits are jamming the motor works so the computer is sensing the motor doesn't reach final position. Or whatever sensor feeds P13C700 is not getting the right signal.

(in my car, no error code because the motor was free to spin around the broken bits, so it thought it was doing its job correctly)

I don't know if you ever got a dyno test, but I would be SO curious what your dyno result would be pre- and post- fixing that flap.

Next test (IMO, but it is only of interest as a tinker), pull the motor, manually open the flap by twisting the flap shaft with your fingers, then drive a little bit. accelerate hard-ish up to 30, then pull over and see if that flap self closes. Maybe even try just revving it closed. This test helps nothing, but it would show you that you can't fix the problem without a motor in place with a working spring to hold the flap open.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Thanks, are you aware of the spring part #, or you mentioned there was a non-MB part that was a direct replacement for the whole assembly. Hate to spend $300 for the whole MB assembly.
 

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Found it. Audi part.

 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
This is great! Thanks!
I will pull the motor off the exhaust soon. Hopefully, it's just the spring. If it is, I'll just buy the whole assembly (MB or Audi) and sell the motor on eBay, which fetches about the same price as the whole unit, including the spring. This way I get my spring for just a few bucks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
This is great! Thanks!
I will pull the motor off the exhaust soon. Hopefully, it's just the spring. If it is, I'll just buy the whole assembly (MB or Audi) and sell the motor on eBay, which fetches about the same price as the whole unit, including the spring. This way I get my spring for just a few bucks.
Well, looks good, I lubed it really good and ran the car and watched it open and close.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I would agree - replacing parts and throwing money isn't the solution, that is not what I suggested. I am stating that heat soak can occur on the Intercooler itself, other than the core. I never see more than 10° from ambient with a stock Exchanger and Alpha Intercooler. running 36PSI... I have never logged a need for upgrading then aux or main exchangers

If Weistec says its good, then ECU calibration is soft validated? do you mind posting your .hpl file, maybe a second set of eyes?
I am not familiar with the exhaust flap, if that would cause any issues or if there are ways to bypass (manually open) to confirm.

Here is the HPV12 logs, they are only a couple of minutes but It had failed each time the throttle went above 3k. I renamed it a .txt from .hpl, not sure it can be renamed back or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Well, an update, turns out my problem was with the coil on the #2 cylinder, when it got hot it acted up causing problems. Now that I have the coil/plug problems fixed, I can move on. Working with Weistec I'm driving up the boost up to 35". When we adjust the tune, the car's boost is having problems getting over 26". I was told this could be because the charge air system may have a leak, or I have a bad turbo. I am going to pull the intake box and look at the turbo fan to inspect.
I checked the WG and it was closing at 13.5" vacuum, so I tightened it up to around 12" for fully closed now, per Weistec suggestion.

I had a smoke test performed last month which came back clear, but it is only 2-3psi so not going to show any leaks at 25"-35". Has anyone had any problems with intake charge air leaking? If so, where to start looking?

Thanks!

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Well, an update, turns out my problem was with the coil on the #2 cylinder, when it got hot it acted up causing problems. Now that I have the coil/plug problems fixed, I can move on. Working with Weistec I'm driving up the boost up to 35". When we adjust the tune, the car's boost is having problems getting over 26". I was told this could be because the charge air system may have a leak, or I have a bad turbo. I am going to pull the intake box and look at the turbo fan to inspect.
I checked the WG and it was closing at 13.5" vacuum, so I tightened it up to around 12" for fully closed now, per Weistec suggestion.

I had a smoke test performed last month which came back clear, but it is only 2-3psi so not going to show any leaks at 25"-35". Has anyone had any problems with intake charge air leaking? If so, where to start looking?

Thanks!

Jim
26602
 

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Thanks, they both look good, no nicks. I have the Weistec w.3 which is why it's different.
Hello, I know it's been a while since you last posted, but it seems like im having a very similar issue where the car feels like its losing power after it warms up. I get error code P1CE700 Crankcase ventilation in WOT operation (cylinder bank 1 has a malfunction). Have you been able to fix it? I pretty much have new spark plugs, ignition coils, fuel pump, upgraded rads, ams intercooler, and all the stage 2+ bolt ons. The only thing that's stock is the turbo and HPFP. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Hello, I know it's been a while since you last posted, but it seems like im having a very similar issue where the car feels like its losing power after it warms up. I get error code P1CE700 Crankcase ventilation in WOT operation (cylinder bank 1 has a malfunction). Have you been able to fix it? I pretty much have new spark plugs, ignition coils, fuel pump, upgraded rads, ams intercooler, and all the stage 2+ bolt ons. The only thing that's stock is the turbo and HPFP. Thanks.
Well, to be honest, I don't know specifically which remedy provided the solution. I really believe it was a heat issue related to high temps. I believe it was the high heat from the turbo area causing problems with my coils
I replaced all my coils, and plugs, wrapped the DP, removed the engine cover, and got a turbo blanket. Problem is gone!
 
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