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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
hi guys! I'm kinda new to the forum but I would like to share my "Aftermarket" upgrade for my GLA. currently I have a GLA 180 AMG package and everything is stock and when I got the car I originally wanted a harman kardon speaker system but I opted for the stock version since I got a really good deal with the system. I wanted to switch up aftermarket with the car but I found out it's "difficult" due to how the electronics that the car was set up, and one of the nerdy guys at my dealer suggested I used an aftermarket product called "sonicplus design" and it's a pair of tweeters and a sound "cone" that surrounds the stock door speakers. it's quite expensive and it cost 39,000 yen which cost around 350 usd, I did it and I say the sound is way better even though the unit is stock! although I would assume the 18mm tweeters had the most impact but the speaker cones also delivered the sound better than before. what is more the rear speakers can also be installed with the same set up and the speakers would increase from 6 to 8! so I guess it's really worth the deal I think, I don't know if they had it out of Japan but it's really worth it I think! :)
https://www.sonic-design.co.jp/products/sonicplus/benz.html
 

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What a complete rip off!
Any car audio shop can install this for peanuts!
It's called FAST rings in car audio world.
Can even DIY its so simple, order from Crutchfield.
 

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@ Masatox, do you know how you removed the mid speakers from the door panel? I'm in the process of wrapping my GLA and figured I want to upgrade the stock speakers as well but don't know how to remove the speakers. They don't seem to be riveted into the door panel like older Mercedes and I'm not sure if I want to drill through all of the door panel rivets to get to speaker access
 

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Riveted. Held in by three plastic rivets. From the back.

you have to drill the 10-odd metal rivets and remove the door handle via long t27 torx to get the panel out.

fun times.
 

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Riveted. Held in by three plastic rivets. From the back.

you have to drill the 10-odd metal rivets and remove the door handle via long t27 torx to get the panel out.

fun times.
Yikes - I was afraid that's the case. I think I'm going to swap out the speakers in mine. No idea what the stock amp is rated for though as I want to get the best sound without having to add an amp. Was thinking of Focal
 

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I run a Focal Be3 as a part of my center channel. If you go up high enough in their lineup, I am sure you'll be happy.

I figure cry once with the speaker replacement. Once the OEM is drilled out, a baffle goes in to mount the aftermarket speaker to. From that moment on, I can get behind the door panel by removing the aftermarket speaker. So at least I wont have to drill out the metal rivets twice.
 

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That’s fair. If you don’t mind me asking which model Focal are you using? Googling be3 is not giving me good results. Also did you have the HK system / add an amp? I ordered the ISS 65 but figure like you said do it once, do it right. Might use the ISS 65 for the rear speakers and Focal PS 165F for fronts. Only thing with the box crossover is it’s hard to tell which wire coming from the center console is the main audio line. The stock tweeter and woofer wires trace back to a jumble of wires and I’d only need the one main one running into the crossover with the 165F’s
 

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Car audio Kit Utopia Be Kit No7 - Focal

The beryllium set was Focals top of the line car speaker for years. I was able to get just the 3" raw drivers for a previous car and they moved over to this one when I got it. Looks like Focal has updated the lineup, the BE3 is now replaced by the Utopia M 3.5.

If you like either the ISS or PF, rock 'em and enjoy. Focal is a great company.

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Yes I have the HK setup, and went full monty with several signal processors and amplifiers. They all sit under the existing floor in the trunk. No spare tire to take up the space....

Easiest way to deal with the crossover for the front doors is to intercept the wire in the kickpanels and sever it there. Mount the passive XO in the underdash above the kickpanel, and route an extra speak wire through the existing boot into the door. Then use the factory wire for one speaker, and the new wire you ran for the other speaker.

I did not replace the tweeters in the rear doors, so I have no tips for passive crossover locations for the rear. The strategy is the same, but I'm not sure where I would have put the crossovers physically. In my car, the rear tweeters are simply disconnected.
 

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the best money I spent on this car by far, and there is no close second place.

I spent $10 or $20 on ebay for access to some guys remote server who has a seat into the MB database for parts and procedures for cars. Just input my VIN and I get a full parts list for every subassembly in the car, every procedure from how to remove the door panels to how to remove the engine and transmission, and of course every wire harness across the car, including every bulkhead, break, wire color, and wire size. Very very useful.

You'll never question what wire you are looking at.

Do you have the HK system?
 

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gotcha - yeah I bought the service manual as well. Gives me more comfort drilling out the door panel rivets now that I've seen an instructional video haha. Not the easiest user interface to get used to though. Took a look at the wiring diagrams and a bit difficult to read without circuit knowledge on my end.

I do not have the HK system. I don't need super loud volumes or lots of bass so I'll see if the stock amp is enough. Measured the output on the stock door speakers and seems like it can push ~40W assuming 13.8V which I guess means the stock amp does 250W? Also going to add some dynamat as I feel like the GLA has more road noise than most other mercedes
 

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If I were doing it 100% right, it would have been two tiles of CLD on the outer metal and then complete coverage on the door lining with MLV.

For a couple of reasons I decided to use a more limited approach. I used 4 or 5 tiles on the outer metal and no treatment on the inner door skin. Because of this, the door speakers will never perform to their absolute potential, but I can live with the compromise.

Ditto on the trunk, where 50% of the noise comes in (the other 50% is wind noise coming from the doors/roof/wheel wells etc). What I should have done is a 100% coverage of MLV on the spare tire well. However I needed the real estate for the subwoofer and amp rack, so I made the compromise decision to forego the MLV treatment back there. My subwoofer design is extremely tight as it is (I have a 15" subwoofer under the floor), the addition of MLV would have resulted in the subwoofer likely contacting the floor.

It's all compromises. I chose to go on the heavy side of CLD at the cost of no MLV and just deal with the acoustic consequences.
 
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