[CjackG]

I finally completed the installation of a CURT hitch (#13197) and wiring kit (#59236) on my 2017 GLA 250. I bought both CURT products on Amazon.com.

I had planned to do the hitch install myself but did not feel comfortable removing the entire rear fascia so I found a local shop that did the install for $100, a real bargain!
Due to concerns expressed in other threads about CURT hitch installs we did renew the bumper/frame seal when installing the hitch to avoid any risk of leakage problems.
The CURT hitch fit perfectly and it was not necessary to trim the fascia above the hitch as may be required on some models.

Wiring the CURT kit was easier than expected since all the wire connections required were located right inside the left tail light access panel in the cargo compartment, except the one green wire over to the right turn signals. I wired the 12v ground & power connections to the cargo area 12v outlet instead of direct to the battery and it worked out fine with no codes or problems.

The CURT hitch instructions were ok but the Instructions for a similar Reese hitch (44777) were more detailed and accurate for the 2017 GLA.

I also got a huge amount of help from other owner's posts on the forums that had installed a hitch. The very detailed posts & pics by Ammoduc were super helpful.

Here is the GLA with hitch installed and ready to tow...

 

[Ammoduc]

Looks Beautiful!!! Thanks for the Shout out

 

[Sam7768]

that is beautiful.

Can anyone help me a shop in DFW (Dallas) that can install the Trailer Hitch for GLA250? I bought the parts from Anazon but struggling to find a shop who can install it at a reasonable price.

Thanks

Sam

 

[Tirgoman]

Dallas Hitch on West Commerce, father and son shop that's been in business since 60's, did a great job on my GLA45, 214-748-5272. Seeing their shop is a trip in itself back in time. They let me hang out and watch too.

 

[mslatham1]

Towing Capacity GLA 250 4matic

I see the hitch install and it looks great, can you tell me what the towing capacity is of the GLA 250 4matic? I am looking to towing one of the [email protected] camper trailers that range from 1500-2000lbs.

 

[23481]

Your Curt hitch looks awesome. I have had very good luck with Curt hitch on my Subaru Outback.

I have read a horror story that Curt hitch is not compatible for any Mercedes, whether it is the old GLK, ML, GLA, GLC, etc.. It has to do with the water tightness behind the rear bumper unit, the water will seep into the trunk area and cause major damage to interior. I don't know if Curt has improved on its design.

 

[Jessica Smith]

Looks beautiful! Likewise, I have a red 2018 GLA 250 that just arrived, and it has the hands-free option, which allows you to kick your foot to open the hatch.

I'm concerned that the hitch may interfere with the sensor there.

Anyone know for sure?

 

[irishlaxer10]

Looks beautiful! Likewise, I have a red 2018 GLA 250 that just arrived, and it has the hands-free option, which allows you to kick your foot to open the hatch.

I'm concerned that the hitch may interfere with the sensor there.

Anyone know for sure?

Posted in another hitch thread. Here is what I had said :

I have a 2018 GLA250 4Matic with the lift gate foot sensor and just got had the CURT hitch installed. I have no issues with the lift gate foot sensor post hitch install.

My dealer told me I would not have a warranty void issue with the install as long as I did not use a light kit that would cut into the wiring. The hitch install company used the Tekonsha (119250) T-Connector to avoid cutting into the wires.

I brought him the water intrusion issues I read about on this forum and he made sure to reseal and also added a water seal adhesive, the same kind used on windshield installations for extra sealant.

 

[Ctmedic]

Posted in another hitch thread. Here is what I had said :

I have a 2018 GLA250 4Matic with the lift gate foot sensor and just got had the CURT hitch installed. I have no issues with the lift gate foot sensor post hitch install.

My dealer told me I would not have a warranty void issue with the install as long as I did not use a light kit that would cut into the wiring. The hitch install company used the Tekonsha (119250) T-Connector to avoid cutting into the wires.

I brought him the water intrusion issues I read about on this forum and he made sure to reseal and also added a water seal adhesive, the same kind used on windshield installations for extra sealant.

Curious if you have any water seal issues because I really really want a hitch for bike rack. I don’t want to put my bikes on the roof at all.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Tomokc]

Curious if you have any water seal issues because I really really want a hitch for bike rack. I don’t want to put my bikes on the roof at all.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My desire also, one where the liftgate will open without interfering with the mounted bicycle.

 

[irishlaxer10]

Sorry for the late reply I haven't logged into the forum in quite some time.

I've had no water seal issues at all.

My car normally sits in the garage, but this spring it has been outside in many hard rains in a driveway. So I think that's been a good test of the seal.

 

[Itsmemagic]

Wiring the CURT kit was easier than expected since all the wire connections required were located right inside the left tail light access panel in the cargo compartment, except the one green wire over to the right turn signals. I wired the 12v ground & power connections to the cargo area 12v outlet instead of direct to the battery and it worked out fine with no codes or problems.

Would someone be able to explain the wiriing part in more detail/step-by-step instructions? I would greatly appreciate it.

 

[Itsmemagic]

Actually, looks like there's a post about that already: Mercedes GLA Hitch Wiring Thread

 

[Cyclerosis]

I finally completed the installation of a CURT hitch (#13197) and wiring kit (#59236) on my 2017 GLA 250. I bought both CURT products on Amazon.com.

I had planned to do the hitch install myself but did not feel comfortable removing the entire rear fascia so I found a local shop that did the install for $100, a real bargain!
Due to concerns expressed in other threads about CURT hitch installs we did renew the bumper/frame seal when installing the hitch to avoid any risk of leakage problems.
The CURT hitch fit perfectly and it was not necessary to trim the fascia above the hitch as may be required on some models.

Wiring the CURT kit was easier than expected since all the wire connections required were located right inside the left tail light access panel in the cargo compartment, except the one green wire over to the right turn signals. I wired the 12v ground & power connections to the cargo area 12v outlet instead of direct to the battery and it worked out fine with no codes or problems.

The CURT hitch instructions were ok but the Instructions for a similar Reese hitch (44777) were more detailed and accurate for the 2017 GLA.

I also got a huge amount of help from other owner's posts on the forums that had installed a hitch. The very detailed posts & pics by Ammoduc were super helpful.

Here is the GLA with hitch installed and ready to tow...

Thanks for the information. Since the 12V outlet is rated at a 15A max, and the wiring kit comes with a 10A fuse, that seems to be the best place to pick up power that will also require the least amount of wire (and work) and no laying on the back to fish wire through openings under the car. I really appreciate all the information available here!

 

[Itsmemagic]

Ordered and installed the wiring kit that didn't come with the fuse. Could that be a problem? Doesn't the 12V outlet have it's own fuse anyway?

 

[Cyclerosis]

The 12V outlet is rated at 15A. The fusible link that I had to purchase in a separate wiring kit, came with a 10A fuse. If you have the fusible link, installing a 10A fuse will cost you very little and fuses can be purchased nearly everywhere. If you don't have the link, you can probably pick one up at Auto Zone, WalMart or any auto store.

 

[Cyclerosis]

I just finished the hitch installation. It wasn't that hard, although, I wouldn't consider it an easy process. Here are a few tips you might find helpful if you intend to do the job yourself.

The wiring job was the easiest part of the install and only took an hour and a little bit. If you don't have a test light, here are the color codes for the wires.

The black and white striped wire from plug on the back of the 12V outlet is the power source. The wiring kit came with scotch clips and I've never had good luck with them, so I used standard wire nuts to bring power to the fusible link.

All the other connections were made with heat shrink crimp type butt connectors.

The black and grey striped wire in the left tail light assembly powers the tail lights.

The yellow and white striped wire in the left tail light assembly powers the brake lights.

The black and yellow striped wire in the left tail light assembly is for the left turn signal.

And you'll have to run the green wire from your kit over to the right tail light wire bundle to power the black and green striped wire of the right turn signal.

Mercedes is a bit stingy on length of wire, so I found it easier to make connections by cutting the appropriate wire then pulling it out from the bundle. You'll have to trim some of the black sticky tape off the bundle to locate and pull the wire through.

The hitch installation took about 3 hours because I worked alone and was going slow so as not to fudge it up. For details on what to remove, go to the etrailer.com website and watch the installation process. The only thing I would add to their excellent instructions, is when you mate your hitch to the bumper, use a gasket sealer on the bumper around the foam gasket Mercedes uses to seal off the hollow chamber. I left the foam seal intact on the bumper but scraped off the remnants on the body frame and used gasket sealer there too. Also, if you're working alone, or even with someone, when you mate the hitch to the bumper, use something to strap the assembly together. That makes it much easier to manhandle the assembly into place without smearing gasket sealer all over the place.

Trimming the heat shield wasn't necessary, however, trimming the fascia that would otherwise butt up against the class III Curt hitch is necessary. If it isn't trimmed, the lower part of the fascia will bow downward which will make it difficult or impossible to align the holes for reassembly. And it won't look good.

Thanks for all the input you Mercedes enthusiasts share, hopefully, this will help someone else.

 

[efhines]

I just finished the hitch installation. It wasn't that hard, although, I wouldn't consider it an easy process. Here are a few tips you might find helpful if you intend to do the job yourself.

The wiring job was the easiest part of the install and only took an hour and a little bit. If you don't have a test light, here are the color codes for the wires.

The black and white striped wire from plug on the back of the 12V outlet is the power source. The wiring kit came with scotch clips and I've never had good luck with them, so I used standard wire nuts to bring power to the fusible link.

All the other connections were made with heat shrink crimp type butt connectors.

The black and grey striped wire in the left tail light assembly powers the tail lights.

The yellow and white striped wire in the left tail light assembly powers the brake lights.

The black and yellow striped wire in the left tail light assembly is for the left turn signal.

And you'll have to run the green wire from your kit over to the right tail light wire bundle to power the black and green striped wire of the right turn signal.

Mercedes is a bit stingy on length of wire, so I found it easier to make connections by cutting the appropriate wire then pulling it out from the bundle. You'll have to trim some of the black sticky tape off the bundle to locate and pull the wire through.

The hitch installation took about 3 hours because I worked alone and was going slow so as not to fudge it up. For details on what to remove, go to the etrailer.com website and watch the installation process. The only thing I would add to their excellent instructions, is when you mate your hitch to the bumper, use a gasket sealer on the bumper around the foam gasket Mercedes uses to seal off the hollow chamber. I left the foam seal intact on the bumper but scraped off the remnants on the body frame and used gasket sealer there too. Also, if you're working alone, or even with someone, when you mate the hitch to the bumper, use something to strap the assembly together. That makes it much easier to manhandle the assembly into place without smearing gasket sealer all over the place.

Trimming the heat shield wasn't necessary, however, trimming the fascia that would otherwise butt up against the class III Curt hitch is necessary. If it isn't trimmed, the lower part of the fascia will bow downward which will make it difficult or impossible to align the holes for reassembly. And it won't look good.

Thanks for all the input you Mercedes enthusiasts share, hopefully, this will help someone else.

Yeah, they must have run out of those colors when they put my 2015 GLA 250 together. I have:

Left:
Black and Grey
White and Yellow
Brown

Right:
White and Yellow
White and Orange
Brown and Orange

I guess I need a tester.

 

[Cyclerosis]

Yeah, they must have run out of those colors when they put my 2015 GLA 250 together. I have:

Left:
Black and Grey
White and Yellow
Brown

Right:
White and Yellow
White and Orange
Brown and Orange

I guess I need a tester.

Tap into the wires leading into the tail light housing.
The black and grey striped wire powers your trailers tail lights.
The yellow and white striped wire powers your trailers brake lights.
The black and yellow wire powers the left turn signal.
Take the green wire from your kit and route it to the right side wire loom to make a connection with the black and green striped wire.
And you can use the black and *********** wire from the rear 12V socket to power the kit.

 

[efhines]

Tap into the wires leading into the tail light housing.
The black and grey striped wire powers your trailers tail lights.
The yellow and white striped wire powers your trailers brake lights.
The black and yellow wire powers the left turn signal.
Take the green wire from your kit and route it to the right side wire loom to make a connection with the black and green striped wire.
And you can use the black and *********** wire from the rear 12V socket to power the kit.

I would love to be able to follow this advice, but the wire colors I listed above do not match the wire colors you are suggesting I connect up.

On the left tail light, I can use the grey and black as you state, as well as the yellow and white, which leaves me using the brown as the left turn signal.

I do not have a black and green striped wire on the right tail light. While I do appreciate the response, I was pretty clear with the wire colors that exist in my 2015 GLA 250.

Again, I have the following wire colors on the right tail light:

Right:
White and Yellow
White and Orange
Brown and Orange

This is why I will need a automotive circuit tester and I will validate the wires to make sure I am connecting them up properly.

Also, for simplification, I am going to connect the white and black wires to a 12 V 20A cigarette adapter that i can just plug into the rear 12 v 15 A power supply.

Appreciate the response.

I will get a tester and post the results with pictures later tomorrow.

Next will be exactly how hard is it to install a hitch. I am using the Curt hitch, Class 3. I plan on towing my Hobie PA 14 360 Pro Angler on a Right on Trailer Multi-Sport trailer setup.

Thanks.