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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I recently purchased a 15' CPO GLA45 back in September and am loving the car, however have had a few unfortunate incidents with it so far, the latest being some really weird no-start electrical issues leaving me dead in the water, but I should start with the 'back story' - sorry for the long post, there is a tl;dr at the end if you don't want to read the whole thing ;)

I was in a deer collision with it in late October, the front end was pretty mangled, ended up being a 17k insurance claim. It went through a certified MB body shop, and I got it back 12/5. There weren't any issues with the repairs that I could see, they did an amazing job. Drove it for a few days and then put a winter wheel/tire set up on it on 12/9.

It's my daily so I continued to drive it as usual, and then had the day off this Friday (12/14) so went for a little joyride/cruise. There was pretty frequent starts/stops and turning the car off/on. Got back to the city after the day out and went through the carwash, filled it up with gas, and went across the street to get some food. Went in and ordered my food, and came back out and the car would not crank over, and gave me a EBD/ABS/ESP inoperative see owners manual warning in the instrument panel. It also showed a coolant picture, so I think it thought the coolant was hot but the AMG panel said the temps were fine. Was also getting some weird light malfunctions like check left and right turning signal.

A friend came with a battery booster and we got the car started, no messages in the instrument panel when it started and all the lights were fine but the check engine light was on in the dials. I was able to drive it home (15min) and it drove totally fine. It sat overnight and in the morning would not start and gave the warnings again. I did some research and wanted to start simple so I went ahead and got a battery at the dealer (battery was fully discharged in the accident). Replaced the battery and it started first try. I then shut it off and went to get food within an hour later. Drive there and back was fine except for the check engine light on. I then went to leave later that night after the car had been sitting for a number of hours (6 or so) and it was back to not starting, with the EBD/ABS/ESP warning on, and the weird light warnings. So it seems that it wasn't a battery issue, but here's where it gets even a bit weirder.

Having the car towed away is the last thing I want to have happen, so I went out this morning (12/16) and tried to start it with no luck and getting all the same warnings. Popped open the fuse box cover, and noticed that a few of the large block fuses were not pushed totally in place, so pushed them all down secure. Still no start. Disconnected the battery, waited a few minutes, and reconnected. It started on the first try just like it did when I replaced the battery. No messages in the panel, but the check engine on. I let it sit and idle for a while and then shut it off and am now making this post. It's the weekend so I'm stranded from calling anywhere like a dealer or body shop to get support.

tl;dr

- car was in an accident and battery was fully discharged
- car drove fine for a week and a half after getting it back from the body shop
- randomly would not start after a day of driving, with EBD/ESP/ABS warning and light warnings
- replaced battery and car started fine for a couple hours, then back to no-start with warnings
- disconnected battery and car starts fine without warnings but check engine light is on


Couple of questions:

- Is it the EBD/ESP/ABS warning that is not letting the car start? It being a no-start issue is having me reluctant to drive it anywhere but the dealer if it even starts at all.
- Could the installation of the winter wheels have anything to do with this? I've read that the wheel speed sensor can trigger this, but I also drove for nearly a week on them with no issues.

Thanks in advance!
 

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Welcome to the Forum. Great detail on your first post. This is a worldwide Forum and specifications vary from country to country. When you have a chance go to the Control Panel and enter your data. This will assist in answering questions.

Car batteries are not deep cycle. Once they go dead they can develop poor behavior (a great simplification). I have seen new batteries (that have been sitting on the shelf for too long) have these same problems.

A poor battery can cause all kinds of codes to pop up. Once the CEL lights this will latch on. There are only two ways to shut it off ... plug a diagnostic tool into the OBD II port and clear, or drive several trips of several miles.

I would have the new battery load tested. A friend just had to have his new battery replaced for problems similar to yours.

The speed sensor is on the hub assembly. Changing tires (even with wheels) should not have an affect on these unless a connector was dislodged.

And speaking of connectors, there is no such thing as a good connection. Some are better than others but none are good. This goes for electrical and mechanical items. You had a crash. You had a lot of stuff replaced. To err is human and I would expect at least one or two problems after a major repair (in my experience). So there may be more to your situation. But I'd start at the battery.

Good luck and please keep us posted regarding your progress.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply and all the info!

Update from today:

After getting it started this morning with the battery disconnect I let it idle for about 20 mins before shutting it off and going inside. Came back out about 2 hours later, and it started first try with no warnings in the instrument panel. Reset the trip tracker and drove around the block a bit and everything was good. Stopped for a few minutes in a parking lot, shut it off, and it restarted a few minutes later with no issues again. Total length of the drive was about 8 miles, with one shut off/start up. So long story short, once the car is started it operates totally fine.

Going to let it sit another couple hours and try again and if it fires up take it for a little bit longer of a drive. With it being Sunday today I can't do too much as far as computer diagnostics but I will be calling the dealer and/or a third party shop tomorrow morning to get the computer scanned as quickly as possible.
 

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Thanks for the reply and all the info!

Update from today:

After getting it started this morning with the battery disconnect I let it idle for about 20 mins before shutting it off and going inside. Came back out about 2 hours later, and it started first try with no warnings in the instrument panel. Reset the trip tracker and drove around the block a bit and everything was good. Stopped for a few minutes in a parking lot, shut it off, and it restarted a few minutes later with no issues again. Total length of the drive was about 8 miles, with one shut off/start up. So long story short, once the car is started it operates totally fine.

Going to let it sit another couple hours and try again and if it fires up take it for a little bit longer of a drive. With it being Sunday today I can't do too much as far as computer diagnostics but I will be calling the dealer and/or a third party shop tomorrow morning to get the computer scanned as quickly as possible.

Did you see my post started some weeks back, this is similar, though my vehicle was never in an accident, but I suspect the prior owner (2015 off lease that I bought with only 18k) did something that caused battery drain/dead and once that is done, the damage is done. I won't go into the no-start I was having now that we are going into colder weather here in Colorado, but long story short if you go to the end, the dealer did find low voltage output on my old battery, and new one has since fixed it perfectly. But with you, I wonder if anyone has checked for any parasitic drain problem, and perhaps check new battery to ensure it is indeed still putting out proper max voltage. Oh, I also made some changes to conserve power once off....I have no need for my external lighting to remain on like 30 seconds after I close my door, nor do I need my interior lighting remaining on like 90 seconds or whatever after I exit. That now shuts off after like 15 secs. Edit: Correction, interior lighting off less than 15 secs, except ambient lighting in sport seatbacks and door panels, that is still on 90 secs, though it's likely all low draw/LED, but I might still look to have that shut down sooner too.



My Thread is titled:



yellow engine warning light, plus do not shift (Multi-page thread 1 2)
 

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Thanks for the reply and all the info!

Update from today:

After getting it started this morning with the battery disconnect I let it idle for about 20 mins before shutting it off and going inside. Came back out about 2 hours later, and it started first try with no warnings in the instrument panel. Reset the trip tracker and drove around the block a bit and everything was good. Stopped for a few minutes in a parking lot, shut it off, and it restarted a few minutes later with no issues again. Total length of the drive was about 8 miles, with one shut off/start up. So long story short, once the car is started it operates totally fine.

Going to let it sit another couple hours and try again and if it fires up take it for a little bit longer of a drive. With it being Sunday today I can't do too much as far as computer diagnostics but I will be calling the dealer and/or a third party shop tomorrow morning to get the computer scanned as quickly as possible.

Did you see my post started some weeks back, this is similar, though my vehicle was never in an accident, but I suspect the prior owner (2015 off lease that I bought with only 18k) did something that caused battery drain/dead and once that is done, the damage is done. I won't go into the no-start I was having now that we are going into colder weather here in Colorado, but long story short if you go to the end, the dealer did find low voltage output on my old battery, and new one has since fixed it perfectly. But with you, I wonder if anyone has checked for any parasitic drain problem, and perhaps check new battery to ensure it is indeed still putting out proper max voltage. Oh, I also made some changes to conserve power once off....I have no need for my external lighting to remain on like 30 seconds after I close my door, nor do I need my interior lighting remaining on like 90 seconds or whatever after I exit. That now shuts off after like 15 secs.



My Thread is titled:



yellow engine warning light, plus do not shift (Multi-page thread 1 2)
 

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You do not show your location. In the USA most auto part stores (big chain auto parts stores) will have a OBII reader that they will let you use to read the codes at no charge.

You should update you profile to show model, year and location as that helps in getting answers sometimes. Upper right corner click on User CP and update profile.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Update:

I haven’t had any issues with the car not starting since I pushed down fuses and disconnected the battery, and have driven pretty extensively. I reset the trip tracker and have driven 175 miles and my check engine light actually just kicked itself off tonight. I’ve only had one weird thing happen, which was this morning it said it couldn’t shift into reverse, so I shut it off and waited a minute and next start it was fine. Check engine light was still on at this time so I’m just chalking that one up to a little computer glitch, plus it was really cold (20F) and I didn’t really let it warm up much because I was just moving it in the driveway quick. I know Wayne mentioned there isn’t such thing as a ‘good connection’ but the way some of the fuse blocks were pulled up from their spots (including the starter relay fuse) really makes my gut lean towards a weird connection issue in the fuse box being a major, if not the sole, culprit of my issues.

The dealership said they were into January to look at it so I’ve got an appointment with a third party shop on Thursday to do a computer scan to see if I can pin point exactly where the fault was, and mainly because the check engine was still on at the time I made the appointment. I’ll do a final update Thursday after I get the scan diagnosis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Another update:

It seems the car didn’t sort itself out as much as I thought. I was left stranded again yesterday, this time in the middle of the road. As I mentioned in my last update, check engine went off and car was driving fine. Went to start it yesterday morning and it tried to crank and almost fired but gave the EBD/ABS/ESP inoperable again. Stepped out of the car and back in and it started fine the second time. Let it warm up and while I was driving it flashed the EBD/ABS/ESP light and felt like it almost lost power but regained everything and I continued driving to my destination.

I picked up a friend to do some holiday shopping and when we left the first store and got onto the road the car started losing power and flashing warnings like collision assistance not available and the EBD/ABS/ESP. It also flashed the coolant graphic very briefly, but there was no text and the AMG panel said temps were fine. So the car lost all power and stalled and I was luckily able to coast to the median. I still had the ratchet in the car from the previous mishaps, so I tried disconnecting the battery and giving it a couple minutes. This time it wouldn’t restart, and again it was giving weird light malfunctions, like check left and right turn signals. Called roadside and they first sent a jump start attempt. The guy had a battery jump pack and that wouldn’t start it, the voltage was bouncing between 12.1-12.2 on the screen of the battery jumper. Tow truck came and got it to the dealership (different one than I originally talked with) and they said they’re going to diagnose it today and let me know, so I’m waiting on that now.

- Does anyone have any ideas what can cause the car to lose power and stall while driving and then not restart?
 

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Lots of things unfortunately. A loose wheel speed sensor could indicate an unstable condition and the stability control would take over, for instance. Generally, when you're getting such a range of errors, you look for a common cause, generally an electrical power problem (intermittent shorting in the battery, loose cable somewhere, etc.). The dealer has their work cut out for them on this one 8(
 

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As stated can be many things because the culprit here is computer controlled diagnostics constantly going on. Something is messing with all the thousands or more of feedback signals your controller is receiving and this is likely sending off the warnings, shutdowns, etc. Hopefully they find codes to source your problem(s).
 

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Mercedes GLA45 AMG. I had to choose between A45 and GLA45. Needed a car to drive)) while choosing - looked at the A45 - did not like the TOTAL lack of trunk. So stopped at the GLA. The acceleration of the cars is the same. I chose one of the cars in the stock, without any trimmings, for a complete set decided to buy a set of tools. With this, I was helped by Home Improvement Blog - Homienjoy.com, for a good car needs good instruments because on the road can happen anything.
 
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