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I believe all MB dealers use extraction to change oil...and if you buy yourself an oil extractor and an MB filter wrench it really couldn't be easier. There is no demonstrated benefit to "pulling-the-plug".
svc "A" is one hour so their rate is probably $120 in labor and $60-ish on parts. It used to be, and don't quote me on this, that if you showed your receipts to the service dept that MB would update your vehicle records to show the oil change....I simply write down my changes in the service booklet.

Not true about MB dealers all using extraction. My dealership removes the oil pan plug to drain. The invoice bears that out because it lists a new crush ring along with the filter and oil.


I would never use extraction myself, or take a car to a shop that did, because I want as much of the used oil and wear contaminants out as possible.
 
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I posted this on another thread, but this is the notes from the MB WIS workshop notes.
Interesting that the AMG engine is drained, but not the GLA250. I think that pretty much says draining is better than extracting.


Obviously the extraction method is solely for the benefit of shop efficiency, NOT YOUR ENGINE!
 
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Not true about MB dealers all using extraction. My dealership removes the oil pan plug to drain. The invoice bears that out because it lists a new crush ring along with the filter and oil.


I would never use extraction myself, or take a car to a shop that did, because I want as much of the used oil and wear contaminants out as possible.
I think you are right about the contaminants. I think its essential especially for AMG engines to really get all the old oil out. Not to say that GLA engines don't benefit from draining. Important is to loosen the oil filter give time for the oil to flow down and use the extraction or draining.

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Be grateful you are not in Canada where an A Service at MB dealer for a GLA45 will cost about C$440 plus Sales Tax (kills C$500> i.e. US$375).

The good news is the dealer we ended up using is not a Corporate store and does not insist on using an extractor. Last week had to tell the MBC adjoining the MBC head office in Toronto to give us back the car if they were not going to follow MB's directive to drain our GLA45 rather than extract. Long story short, we got the car back.

The good news is we have the full maintenance plan for the term of our leased 2018, so did not pay the A Service pricing for the GLA45..... in Florence (Italy), we pay about Euro125 (~C$200) for an A Service on our first series GLA45. No idea why the huge variance......
 

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Discussion Starter #45
I wonder if it would hurt/benefit in anyway to extract for 2 or 3 times in a row and then drain? Then repeat? I'm changing my oil about every 3.5 months because I travel for work. I've heard people say 10,000 miles is too long to go between oil changes? I'd imagine the dealership wouldnt have you go longer than necessary since the more often your oil needs changed the more money they get. Who knows.

As far as taking it to a dealership, I would not hesitate to do so for warranty issues, recalls, or something that needs to be fixed that is not routine maintenance. When it comes to more complex activities, I trust the dealership since they only work on MB, they are the most knowledgeable. I do not, however, feel it necessary to take it there for something like Service A or B in which an average, run of the mill, mechanic could complete it just fine. ****, there is nothing in Service A that my boyfriend and I cannot do and neither one of us are close to being professional mechanics. I personally couldn't come to terms with shelling out that much for something so simple unless I had more money than sense or just had to have my oil changed immediately and no other options were available. But that's just my opinion. To each their own.

Today, I'm going to touch up a few chips on my car and make an appointment to have it waxed. I know this is an oil thread, but since yall are reading here, I thought I'd ask your opinion.

Do you suggest clay bar and wax or only wax? One business washes, uses clay bar, and waxes all by hand. A different business I spoke to only waxes. They use clay bar on motorcycles upon request but not cars and acted like I didnt know what I was talking about when I asked about it. Since I've seen plenty about clay barring cars, I assume the first business is my better option, plus they do it all by hand, no brushes or rotary tools on my paint at all. What do y'all think?
 

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You need to update your profile by clicking on User CP in the upper right of the screen. Knowing the country and year model can help in answering questions.

If your GLA is new clay barring would not really need to be done. If a year or more old than you might want to clay bar to remove stuff stuck to the paint that washing does not remove and then do it like once a year. Always wax after clay barring.

On the oil change with Mobil 1 every 10k is when to change the oil. If in question you can have the oil tested one time at 10k to see for yourself if it is still good. One thing about going to the dealer is if there is a Service Campaign they will do it free of charge. Service campaign is something MB can be a software update to a part replacement that MB will do for better life or performance to to prevent a bigger problem. As they are not safety replated there is no recall, and the only way you will know about them is when you take it in for service or repairs. Maybe do a oil change DIF a few times and then go in for a service "A".
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Updated my info :)

My vehicle is a 2016 model. My issue is that I drive 120 miles a day to and from work on a highway with high truck traffic. There are also a lot of coal tipples in my region, so I wash my car basically every weekend and by Wednesday the shine of a fresh wash is gone. By the next weekend it is nice and dirty again (is it bad to wash every weekend? I use Meguiar's gold standard shampoo and conditioner with the two bucket method). So I'm sure a clay bar would be useful for my vehicle because the paint feels kind of gritty.

I assume I must change oil every 10,000 miles even if I personally think it doesnt need changed yet just to keep from voiding warranty? Is there a certain point when you're over due for an oil change in which it may affect warranty or am i just making this up? I went about 300 miles (about 2 days driving wise) over 10,000 miles for my oil change waiting for my oil change to arrive from the dealership. I'm sure 300 miles overdue for an oil change is no big deal but that just got me wondering.
 

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Suggest after a wash you use a detail spray or a spray wax. This should help in having a clean looking car between washes. Yes if the paint feels gritty than clay bar.

A few hundred miles over the 10k should be no problem. A while several thousands could be a problem.
 

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I wonder if it would hurt/benefit in anyway to extract for 2 or 3 times in a row and then drain? Then repeat? I'm changing my oil about every 3.5 months because I travel for work.
Do as you wish, but personally I wouldn't chance extraction. I've been changing my own oil since I got my license in 1972, draining it every time. Never had an oil related problem in 45 years of driving.
 

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Pam is approaching 5K miles since I last drained the oil in our 45.

I picked up an extractor since some posted oil pan pictures that implied that there would be a tub of undrained oil left after the plug was pulled. I'll use the extractor and then see if there is oil left to come out the plug.

I'll report back in a few weeks.
 

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Pam is approaching 5K miles since I last drained the oil in our 45.

I picked up an extractor since some posted oil pan pictures that implied that there would be a tub of undrained oil left after the plug was pulled. I'll use the extractor and then see if there is oil left to come out the plug.

I'll report back in a few weeks.

The notes from MB says to only drain for 45.





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I think ALL AMG models required draining from the bottom via the drain bolt/plug. On my last SLK55 AMG, there were TWO drain bolts/plugs......one for the oil pan and the other for the sump pump.

I think as long as one performed regular oil changes according to MB recommendations and specs, the little bit of oil left in the system after draining via the drain bolts/plugs will not matter much since the amount left over is so small. But if one goes for some crazy EXTENDED OIL CHANGE INTERVALS BEYOND MB SPECS then there will be troubles ahead.

Just remember:. The solution to pollution is dilution. This is accomplished via regular oil and filter changes whereby the pollution (contaminants) are trapped by the filter and diluted by the fresh oil.


Pam is approaching 5K miles since I last drained the oil in our 45.

I picked up an extractor since some posted oil pan pictures that implied that there would be a tub of undrained oil left after the plug was pulled. I'll use the extractor and then see if there is oil left to come out the plug.

I'll report back in a few weeks.

The notes from MB says to only drain for 45.





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where you get this workshop documents?

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I think its no longer available from the seller, but you can try other sellers on eBay.

You would have to search WIS ASRA EPC. I was fortunate that my copy and others who bought from the same seller works. There are no guarantees that it will work.

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