Custom Audio in GLA
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Radio in the sunglasses holder is awesome. Everything looks great. I can only assume that it would sound great as well. I'm also curious about the price if you don't mind letting us know.
Does it also mean you can't use the trunk as much for actually transporting things?
Does it also mean you can't use the trunk as much for actually transporting things?
Yes, it sounds fantastic! I had an existing 2-way set of Dynaudio Esotec speakers and we added a Morel Elate midrange (since the matching Dynaudio mid was too large for the A-pillars). The mid bass drivers are in the front door factory locations. All the other speakers in the car were removed. Front/rear/hatch doors and the trunk were all sound dampened.
Using the MoBridge DA1 to convert the fiber-optic network, a clean signal is run into the Alpine processor (the controller is what's in the sunglass holder) and out to a 6 channel McIntosh amplifier for the speakers and a mono Zed amplifier for the 2 12" Stereo Integrity subs. Subs were custom fiberglassed into the spare tire well. Since I had really large amplifiers, we ended up having to raise the trunk floor about 3" to fit everything and built a new floorboard with steel mesh cutouts covered by black carpet.
Factory controls, bluetooth, etc all still function. I was worried that the 115 amp alternator wasn't going to be sufficient to run the ~1300 watts, but haven't experienced any headlight dimming at all.
Now for costs... Disclaimer - I used to be in the industry, so I'm kind of an audio nut and really went all out this time.
Labor: the A-pillars are $650 and trunk $750. Total labor/misc materials are around $2500. Wiring, equipment, sound deadening materials were separate. All in, probably $8000, but I had most of the pieces and wiring from my last car.
Using the MoBridge DA1 to convert the fiber-optic network, a clean signal is run into the Alpine processor (the controller is what's in the sunglass holder) and out to a 6 channel McIntosh amplifier for the speakers and a mono Zed amplifier for the 2 12" Stereo Integrity subs. Subs were custom fiberglassed into the spare tire well. Since I had really large amplifiers, we ended up having to raise the trunk floor about 3" to fit everything and built a new floorboard with steel mesh cutouts covered by black carpet.
Factory controls, bluetooth, etc all still function. I was worried that the 115 amp alternator wasn't going to be sufficient to run the ~1300 watts, but haven't experienced any headlight dimming at all.
Now for costs... Disclaimer - I used to be in the industry, so I'm kind of an audio nut and really went all out this time.
Labor: the A-pillars are $650 and trunk $750. Total labor/misc materials are around $2500. Wiring, equipment, sound deadening materials were separate. All in, probably $8000, but I had most of the pieces and wiring from my last car.
All the doors, hatch, and hatch floor were treated with Dynamat Xtreme and Dynaliner Foam. I wanted to do Mass Loaded Vinyl as well, but there wasn't enough room.
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1 Posts
Hi!
I am picking up my GLA250 on Monday and I ordered it with the stock audio system.
I am wanting to upgrade the speakers and add an amp.
I'm not familiar with much of this stuff.
I don't care much about adding a sub - I just want the music to be louder and clear with no distortion - but if I need to add a small sub I will.
What would you recommend?
And what are the speaker sizes so I can order them?
I would really appreciate the help as I can't find much information.
Thank you!!
I am picking up my GLA250 on Monday and I ordered it with the stock audio system.
I am wanting to upgrade the speakers and add an amp.
I'm not familiar with much of this stuff.
I don't care much about adding a sub - I just want the music to be louder and clear with no distortion - but if I need to add a small sub I will.
What would you recommend?
And what are the speaker sizes so I can order them?
I would really appreciate the help as I can't find much information.
Thank you!!
Sorry, haven't been on the forum in a long time.
The MB audio is terrible. And it's not as easy as simply swapping out speakers - the audio settings (in engineering mode) can't be changed and they are preprogrammed (EQ/X-overs) to make the stock speakers sound "better". Just popping in new speakers could actually sound worse. I'm exactly sure about speaker sizes, probably .75" or 1" tweeter and 6.5" in the doors. To replace the door speakers, you have to drill or cut them out, as they are riveted into the door panel.
The only way to do a proper audio upgrade it is to get a MoBridge DA3, remove the factory sub/amp combo, and put in your own sub, amp(s), and speakers.
Or if you want to keep the stock sub, you can do a JL Cleansweep, but you still need a new amp for the new speakers.
The MB audio is terrible. And it's not as easy as simply swapping out speakers - the audio settings (in engineering mode) can't be changed and they are preprogrammed (EQ/X-overs) to make the stock speakers sound "better". Just popping in new speakers could actually sound worse. I'm exactly sure about speaker sizes, probably .75" or 1" tweeter and 6.5" in the doors. To replace the door speakers, you have to drill or cut them out, as they are riveted into the door panel.
The only way to do a proper audio upgrade it is to get a MoBridge DA3, remove the factory sub/amp combo, and put in your own sub, amp(s), and speakers.
Or if you want to keep the stock sub, you can do a JL Cleansweep, but you still need a new amp for the new speakers.
Correction: JL now calls this product "Fix" and may require installing a volume knob up front. The MoBridge solution preserves the factory volume controls.
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880 Posts
Any simple solutions for adding more bass. 1. Somehow swaping the stock sub
2.Looking into powered subs under seat.
I don't mind the speakers I just want a more solid bass. I don't need to shake the neighbors windows. The performance exhaust drones out the regular sub
2.Looking into powered subs under seat.
I don't mind the speakers I just want a more solid bass. I don't need to shake the neighbors windows. The performance exhaust drones out the regular sub
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156 Posts
This was relatively simple to install.
It is powered off a 10Amp cigarette plug and gets it's Input from the rear HK sub that's under the trunk floor. I simply solder "tee'd" into its connetor.
The HK sub has two input "pairs" and so does this Pioneer, all very simply.
I then put the Pioneer wired "remote" control in the centre armrest.
You need to make 2 slots in trunk floor for the straps, the rubber matt is also needed to stop the sliding about.
Set all the HK Eq. to the middle, Logic7 on, sub Xover to @80Hz, Vol to 3/4. Then it's "hello" to all those 5-string bass guitar lines you miss. "yes I'm a bass player"
I think it sounds rather good and so has anyone else that's been in the car, Dub Reggae is a breeze now. This Pioneer is good match to the existing setup and does not drown the rest out, it just adds the lower registers.
It is powered off a 10Amp cigarette plug and gets it's Input from the rear HK sub that's under the trunk floor. I simply solder "tee'd" into its connetor.
The HK sub has two input "pairs" and so does this Pioneer, all very simply.
I then put the Pioneer wired "remote" control in the centre armrest.
You need to make 2 slots in trunk floor for the straps, the rubber matt is also needed to stop the sliding about.
Set all the HK Eq. to the middle, Logic7 on, sub Xover to @80Hz, Vol to 3/4. Then it's "hello" to all those 5-string bass guitar lines you miss. "yes I'm a bass player"
I think it sounds rather good and so has anyone else that's been in the car, Dub Reggae is a breeze now. This Pioneer is good match to the existing setup and does not drown the rest out, it just adds the lower registers.
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49 Posts
I also did a slight modification to my speaker system, but it's more like a subtle upgrade since I have a base system and I bought a "tweeter system kit" from a new japanese company called sonicplus, and got their speakers, I would recommend it since the sound improved way more than I anticipated!
https://www.sonic-design.co.jp/english/products/sonicplus/
https://www.sonic-design.co.jp/english/products/sonicplus/
Very cool design.
I'm looking at the TS-WX70DA. Could you share the left/right and +/- pins or wire colors?
Well that was easy. Pins are +Red - Brown/Red and +Blue -Brown/Blue
I like the Pioneer TS-WX70DA but not as great as my last setup with a slim pioneer sub and JL Audio amp in my VW TDI but I promised myself I wasn't going crazy with the mods on this car!
It's hard when the pre fibre optic setups cost a third as much as something sounding comparable for the gla , clearly advanced tech is not a consumer benefit in this case
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156 Posts
Sorry I missed your question, but I see you "sussed" it.
Hi,like to know where do you get the input signal from HK sub. pictures will do please. I'm planning to put a slim Active sub /amp connected it to the 12 volt outlet .
Thanks
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