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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
I recently dropped tire pressure to 34psi front, 30 rear. Ride really good, and noticeably quieter. The tire sticker on the fuel door says "normal load" 33/29. Don't know why the dealer uses the sticker on the driver's door. that's "max load". Who does that regularly? I suspect they believe it is a liability issue (for them).
 

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It's an understandable mistake tho' as historically the 'normal load' tire pressure rating was on the driver's door sticker. Thankfully Benz has both normal & max listed inside the fuel door.

And yes, many of the dealership actions it seems are to preclude some ambulance chaser lawyer (I've been on a jury for similar).

I recently dropped tire pressure to 34psi front, 30 rear. Ride really good, and noticeably quieter. The tire sticker on the fuel door says "normal load" 33/29. Don't know why the dealer uses the sticker on the driver's door. that's "max load". Who does that regularly? I suspect they believe it is a liability issue (for them).
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
OK, I know I'm beating a dead horse here (sorry peta), but going away from RF and to regular tires, along with dropping air pressure to what the MFR's recommended PSI for 'normal loads' makes my GLA into a brand new car. This past week I've been able to take some decently long road trips here in southern California, and now the people in the back seat can actually hear conversation in the front seat! And also when I speak to my wife on the phone when she's driving it I can hear SO MUCH BETTER.

If you are unhappy with the noise level in your GLA I recommend ditching those RF's ASAP.
 

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No. Standard tires will fit the same rims just fine. In fact often when ordering they are freely offered in place of RF's.

And yes, there's a big difference in relative cabin noise levels and ride comfort to a lesser degree with standard tires. And they're less expensive. But then trading off the security of being able to drive yourself to service if/when you encounter a flat. 'Always a trade-off there is.' -Yoda


do i have to change the rim if i change to normal tyre from RF?

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Switching to non run flats

So, I am new to the forum and looking for advice.
I have a FWD GLA250 and want to switch from the Run Flats to regular tires. I usually drive the car locally and for commute, so roadside assistance should be okay for flats.
The options I was offered were:
Goodyear Assurance WeatherReady
Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+
We get 4 months winter weather and want to pick an all season. I am inclined towards the Michelin, but I read they have tread-life issues and may not do very well in snow.
The Goodyear on the other hand is cheaper compared to the Michelin and work great in snow, but I will loose some of the sporty feel with this tires and they may be more noisy.

I am hoping to achieve a balance, any guidance is appreciated.
 

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I ran Michelin Pilot Sport 3+ A/S last winter on my Audi TTS and they were as good both in traction and smooth ride as I had anticipated. Of course for heavy snow a dedicated winter tire is still best, even tho’ A/S are now closer than ever.

So, I am new to the forum and looking for advice.
I have a FWD GLA250 and want to switch from the Run Flats to regular tires. I usually drive the car locally and for commute, so roadside assistance should be okay for flats.
The options I was offered were:
Goodyear Assurance WeatherReady
Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+
We get 4 months winter weather and want to pick an all season. I am inclined towards the Michelin, but I read they have tread-life issues and may not do very well in snow.
The Goodyear on the other hand is cheaper compared to the Michelin and work great in snow, but I will loose some of the sporty feel with this tires and they may be more noisy.

I am hoping to achieve a balance, any guidance is appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
I ran Michelin Pilot Sport 3+ A/S last winter on my Audi TTS and they were as good both in traction and smooth ride as I had anticipated. Of course for heavy snow a dedicated winter tire is still best, even tho’ A/S are now closer than ever.
Can't go wrong with the Michelin's, but I chose the BF Goodrich G-Force Comp 2 A/S, even though I live in southern California and only if I go skiing at Big Bear or Mammoth do I encounter snow.

For the record, I also have a Pontiac Solstice GXP (since 2007) and never had a spare and never had a flat in about 60K miles, and 2 sets of tires, so I'm crossing my fingers that roadside will always be there for me!
 

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Tire Automotive tire Auto part Automotive wheel system Text

I just switched to these because I didn’t want to pay 1800 $ for the dealership to put original tires back on. Bought this tire because it’s suppose to be the best overall. I’m not a fan of the handling. Now when in sport mode steering doesn’t feel as tight as it use to be. Overall the steering feels loose. Idk if I like it. I’m leaning towards no.


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Sorry to hear that. Michelin has never disappointed me but then a very subjective item. Perhaps for a very few dollars more their Premier LTX may have been the better choice?

But keep in mind that tires need to wear in about 500 miles before they feel normal. And hopefully you had an alignment, as I always do with new tires.

View attachment 24492

I just switched to these because I didn’t want to pay 1800 $ for the dealership to put original tires back on. Bought this tire because it’s suppose to be the best overall. I’m not a fan of the handling. Now when in sport mode steering doesn’t feel as tight as it use to be. Overall the steering feels loose. Idk if I like it. I’m leaning towards no.


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I might not be describing it correct but with the original tires the car had a sporty feel especially when in sport mode. Now with the new tires I can’t feel a difference between comfort and sport mode. I had the 4 wheel alignment done the only think I can think of is the difference between run flats and no because my new ones aren’t run flats. I did research and these tires seem like the best option especially since there’s snow on the ground here 4 months out of the year. I guess I will just have to suck it up and get use to the new blah feel. And next time around get tires from the dealership that are run flats to get the old feel back. I just didn’t want to pay 1600$ for tires I got quoted by them 950 for just 2 tires. I got 4 with alignment for $800 from a tire shop my friend works at I got the tires at wholesale price and the alignment for free.
 

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Anyone care to give a recommendation on Summer tires? I have a 4matic model with the offroad package, I do like the extra clearance but I want a bit sportier and NON run flat tyre, these RFs are too uncomfortable...
Would 245/40s be a problem considering OEM is 235/45? both R19 btw. I know the height will drop by too little, but IDK if the extra width will make it rub
Hi all. Anyone know the answer for that?

I recently bougt a GLA250 (2016) and she came with Pirelli Scorpion (RF).
From what I'm hearing, we're losing quite a bit of comfort and performance vs NRF, and I'm really looking to get some Michelins asap to enjoy the ride even more.
I'm super keen for the PS4S - which are superstars on the road and occasional track days.
Just a tiny bit hesitant with the cousins PS4 and PS4SUV. Any feedback?

Also, size-wise mine are currently 235/45 R19. Would 245/40 work?
 

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Also, size-wise mine are currently 235/45 R19. Would 245/40 work?
Size-wise, here are the differences
235x45x19 Width 9.3" and height 27.4."
245x40x19 Width 9.6" and height 26.7"
Note your speed when the speedometer reads 60mph (96.6km/h) actual speed will be 58.6mph (94.3km/h): 2.3% slower.

There should be no problem with clearances.
 
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Thanks. My question was maybe more about MB recommendation to use different sizes compared to what the car is coming with, in term of balance/security?

For the difference in speed metrics, any tire workshop would reprogram this in the system I'm sure.

In term of driving, having slightly wider tires and lower should provide a bit more stability. And the height clearance should still be comfortable in parkings and stuff?
 

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You're discussing a relatively small change so therefore not much difference in road feel and performance. Wider and lower tire aspect ratio typically does provide more stability given the larger contact patch. This is typically at the expense of some loss in maneuverability, iow with a significantly wider tire you can experience "railroading." But again a relatively small change in your described case.

You of course want taller sidewall aspect ratio to protect more against curb impacts and potholes.

I'm not aware of any coding that may be changed in the computer to match up the speedometer to the differing circumference-travel distance. On a prior Audi I had roughly the same difference when changing to my Winter hand me down rims/tires and since I thought I was going faster than reality that was a good speed limit thing. ;)

Thanks. My question was maybe more about MB recommendation to use different sizes compared to what the car is coming with, in term of balance/security?

For the difference in speed metrics, any tire workshop would reprogram this in the system I'm sure.

In term of driving, having slightly wider tires and lower should provide a bit more stability. And the height clearance should still be comfortable in parkings and stuff?
 
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