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Yep! I'll be the one generating traffic this time, instead of screaming "get out of the way!" in 0-3 group at buttonwillow :D

But honestly, if you're putting down 1:45's, why not go for 7+ group? You're clearly keeping up! I'm just hoping to reliably keep under 1:55 with "best laps" near 1:50.... (and not be in the way :))
 

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Discussion Starter · #103 ·
Yep! I'll be the one generating traffic this time, instead of screaming "get out of the way!" in 0-3 group at buttonwillow :D

But honestly, if you're putting down 1:45's, why not go for 7+ group? You're clearly keeping up! I'm just hoping to reliably keep under 1:55 with "best laps" near 1:50.... (and not be in the way :))
There is no 7+ group, it shows that in the FAQ, but in signups the point by on this day is for 4-11 days for some reason, I have like 8 days in. I'll just try and be one of the first out. My goal is to get sub 1:44, which my theoretical should be in the low 1:43's. We can take passengers too...
 

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That would have me sacrifice one of my sessions, but might be worth it, especially if we have more sessions with fewer groups (dunno, but would be nice to see a 6 session day). I have the line well nailed, but my knowledge and execution of braking points SUCK. Combine that with transmission lag from running it in sport mode (exacerbated by trail braking in more turns than appropriate) and it is a recipe for zero power coming out of a turn, I never have enough.

Once I can figure that part out, I'll be on your tail lights lap after lap :)

It's gonna be a fun day.
 

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I've been getting more and more tuned in to the ridiculousness of the MB procedure database. One hat I wear at work is procedure management and man MB has it Bass Ackwards as far as I am concerned!

I was going to make a document tree showing everything they felt was needed to do to remove the rear sway bar. I still will, so you can enjoy the crazy nested procedure list. The truth is, it doesn't all have to be followed. For example, they say "drop the rear differential just enough to clear the stabilizer bar". But the reference procedure is "Install/Remove the rear differential". Obviously the whole procedure doesn't need to be followed, just enough to drop the differential. STILL, it's so, so goofy.

I found something too ridiculous not to post up for your enjoyment. If I go down the nested tree, here's how it works:

Instructions to remove the rear sway bar:
-References rear differential removal
--One step of this process is from Install/Remove wheel carrier
---This requires Install/Remove the trailing arm
----And to do THAT..... I need to remove the rear sway bar!!!

Yeah, this procedure set is not going to work out. They never say which follow-on procedures are reference, and which are 'must do'. and of those, how much of the reference is needed?

I may as well crawl under the car and just start removing nuts and bolts 'till either the sway bar falls out or the engine falls out....




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Here is "almost" the full silly list (I threw my hands up over the last procedure 1.3.3.2 which has 3-4 sub-procedures)

Font Terrestrial plant Darkness Number Electric blue
 

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Discussion Starter · #106 ·
I've been getting more and more tuned in to the ridiculousness of the MB procedure database. One hat I wear at work is procedure management and man MB has it Bass Ackwards as far as I am concerned!

I was going to make a document tree showing everything they felt was needed to do to remove the rear sway bar. I still will, so you can enjoy the crazy nested procedure list. The truth is, it doesn't all have to be followed. For example, they say "drop the rear differential just enough to clear the stabilizer bar". But the reference procedure is "Install/Remove the rear differential". Obviously the whole procedure doesn't need to be followed, just enough to drop the differential. STILL, it's so, so goofy.

I found something too ridiculous not to post up for your enjoyment. If I go down the nested tree, here's how it works:

Instructions to remove the rear sway bar:
-References rear differential removal
--One step of this process is from Install/Remove wheel carrier
---This requires Install/Remove the trailing arm
----And to do THAT..... I need to remove the rear sway bar!!!

Yeah, this procedure set is not going to work out. They never say which follow-on procedures are reference, and which are 'must do'. and of those, how much of the reference is needed?

I may as well crawl under the car and just start removing nuts and bolts 'till either the sway bar falls out or the engine falls out....




-------------------

Here is "almost" the full silly list (I threw my hands up over the last procedure 1.3.3.2 which has 3-4 sub-procedures)

View attachment 27094

Crazy, im the kind of person to just start removing parts until I get where I want.

On another point, have you thought about getting iracing? I haven't driven it in a while, but you can race Miata's in sub 1:40 races at Laguna Seca. It really helps the lines and for braking points.
 

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I've been getting more and more tuned in to the ridiculousness of the MB procedure database. One hat I wear at work is procedure management and man MB has it Bass Ackwards as far as I am concerned!

I was going to make a document tree showing everything they felt was needed to do to remove the rear sway bar. I still will, so you can enjoy the crazy nested procedure list. The truth is, it doesn't all have to be followed. For example, they say "drop the rear differential just enough to clear the stabilizer bar". But the reference procedure is "Install/Remove the rear differential". Obviously the whole procedure doesn't need to be followed, just enough to drop the differential. STILL, it's so, so goofy.

I found something too ridiculous not to post up for your enjoyment. If I go down the nested tree, here's how it works:

Instructions to remove the rear sway bar:
-References rear differential removal
--One step of this process is from Install/Remove wheel carrier
---This requires Install/Remove the trailing arm
----And to do THAT..... I need to remove the rear sway bar!!!

Yeah, this procedure set is not going to work out. They never say which follow-on procedures are reference, and which are 'must do'. and of those, how much of the reference is needed?

I may as well crawl under the car and just start removing nuts and bolts 'till either the sway bar falls out or the engine falls out....
Whiterabbit,
Let us know how that rear swaybar swap goes. I've got a Whiteline 24mm rear swaybar & Moog endlinks awaiting install.
I crawled under the car to install the bar a few weeks ago, assuming it would be pretty easy like the rear bar on my '09 WRX (and 99.9% of cars I've modified). Wrong! I'm slowly learning not to trust ze Germans for ease of maintenance!
Since I didn't have the time to start removing a bunch of other components, I decided to punt for the time being.
But I figured I may be able to fanagle the bar out after removing the rear wheels and jacking up the control arm to allow room for the bar to slide out laterally. The charcoal canister & rear diff seem to be the biggest impediments. Good luck...we're all counting on you! ; )
 

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If I go by the procedure (the actual procedure):

1. Put vehicle on lift.
2. Loosen cover and slide out of the way.
3. Remove underfloor paneling.
4. Unscrew torsion bar.
5. Unscrew and remove torsion bar linkage.
6. Remove activated charcoal canister.
7. Secure torsion bar to prevent drop-out.
8. Lower rear axle differential with mounted axle shafts. (this is a direct quote from the procedure)
9. Remove bolts from bearing shells and rear axle carrier.
10. Remove torsion bar and bearing shells

Install in reverse order. Bearing shell bolts should be tightened in a star pattern to uniform torque.

The devil is in the details. As you can imagine, "lowering the differential" is probably not just unbolting it and holding in place with a wire coat hangar like it's a brake caliper.
 

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Sway bars and springs are in!

Jim, another question. Have you tuned yours much? Have you found any change in the car's balance (oversteer vs understeer) in any setting, and change to balance out the car?

I don't drive aggressive on city streets (aka bumpy roads which need softer setups), so any reason not to just run the stiffest setting (assuming it's balanced) since I only hammer it on groomed tracks?

I'd just tune it on the track, but it means my cycles of learning are 90 days apart since I only track so much. May as well ping the collective on setup. The collective of GLA owners with sway bars being, well, you. :)

(Unless I drag a jack and tools to LS and put up the car between sessions to move the links, but maybe that seems excessive for a post Thanksgiving DE day?)
 

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Have a great time out there. Pics or it never happened!!!
Another great Laguna Seca day. My times are feeble compared to Jimbo, but I'm good with my slow progress.


If you look carefully at turn 11 brake zone, you'll see sparks flying out of the wheel, captured by the go-pro. Found tons of footage like that at various corners, but turn 11 is by far the murderer of my discs.

I need my thermostat replaced, so I spent my down time keeping the heat IN the car, of all bizarre situations. Had only one "real" mechanical, popped into limp mode with a cyl 3 misfire at the very end of the day, stopping my session. I'm chalking it up to bad fuel since it's never happened before (and just put in new gas before session 5), but I'll have a deeper look after I get a new thermostat and PCV valve (also clogged for now, parts on backorder)

Rest of the car ran like a champ except the driver. The idjit driver had a close call on session 1 and spent 2 sessions gaining back confidence, but still pulled that 1:53 with a theoretical 1:52. I KNOW the car can do a 1:49.xxx with a capable driver (like, schmuck capable, not Andretti capable), so I have a goal for next year!

No vids of Jimbo blowing by me like I'm standing still because he rightfully moved up groups after the first session. Maybe I'll put up a vid of session 1 cause the traffic was pretty bad in blue group. Thinned out by the end of the day and was sweet after lunch.

And that's my 2021 for the track. 2022 gonna hit Laguna again, Buttonwillow, and take Sears Point off the bucket list.

PS, sway bars were in and at full-tight front and rear. Car seems properly balanced to me, with the ability to go understeer or oversteer depending how I took turn 11 wrong :). Labor costs are absurd to get them in, but the lateral G's they can hold the car to are unexpectedly high. At the end of the day, I am pleased with the performance even factoring the cost.
 

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1.0g used to be hard. Now, on Saturday I pulled 0.98 on a plain jane freeway offramp driving at <60% effort with my father in law in the car. He's a car guy, but after that offramp suggested I should think of my kids when planning HPDE.

It's not skill, it's all the RE71R's and the stiff chassis.

Lots of over 1G on this track

Rectangle Slope Plot Parallel Font


Rectangle Slope Plot Font Parallel
 

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Not really. despite my best efforts I'm putting lap times down like Marge



We're not on track together, 'cause Jimbo is in a different league than me. I just moved up from Green to Blue :)

I pass 90% of the greens and a few blues when combined, but being solidly blue puts me at the bottom of the pack all over again. Strong motivator not to be the arse at the bottom!
Humble and modest.

Don't sweat the mods, unless you can show with data its holding you back.
one thing I have on the shelf, very first parts, actually. KMAC bushing kits.

I have mentioned every dealer visit about an odd knuckle popping sound the front end occ makes when backing while turning.
If the bushes cant handle stock springs and bars ....

anyhoo, you guys are heros, doing what the rest of us wish we could.
I've got 30+ AutoX days under my belt, ,but never done a track day
 

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Another great Laguna Seca day. My times are feeble compared to Jimbo, but I'm good with my slow progress.


If you look carefully at turn 11 brake zone, you'll see sparks flying out of the wheel, captured by the go-pro. Found tons of footage like that at various corners, but turn 11 is by far the murderer of my discs.

I need my thermostat replaced, so I spent my down time keeping the heat IN the car, of all bizarre situations. Had only one "real" mechanical, popped into limp mode with a cyl 3 misfire at the very end of the day, stopping my session. I'm chalking it up to bad fuel since it's never happened before (and just put in new gas before session 5), but I'll have a deeper look after I get a new thermostat and PCV valve (also clogged for now, parts on backorder)

Rest of the car ran like a champ except the driver. The idjit driver had a close call on session 1 and spent 2 sessions gaining back confidence, but still pulled that 1:53 with a theoretical 1:52. I KNOW the car can do a 1:49.xxx with a capable driver (like, schmuck capable, not Andretti capable), so I have a goal for next year!

No vids of Jimbo blowing by me like I'm standing still because he rightfully moved up groups after the first session. Maybe I'll put up a vid of session 1 cause the traffic was pretty bad in blue group. Thinned out by the end of the day and was sweet after lunch.

And that's my 2021 for the track. 2022 gonna hit Laguna again, Buttonwillow, and take Sears Point off the bucket list.

PS, sway bars were in and at full-tight front and rear. Car seems properly balanced to me, with the ability to go understeer or oversteer depending how I took turn 11 wrong :). Labor costs are absurd to get them in, but the lateral G's they can hold the car to are unexpectedly high. At the end of the day, I am pleased with the performance even factoring the cost.
I was staring at the wheel insert, dunno bout sparks, but your line, lookee fine man !

GT sport, has lagoona, and the A45
comfort hard, neutered power&weight thats a greasy 1:58
racingSS, all the beans, 1:30.

Its good PS4 giggles
 

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Thanks, still learning! Actually, I didn't realize until the end of the day that I'm not using the whole track. Saw it in the pictures from the photographer and in the vids here. Look how far away I am on the corkscrew from the yellow sausage! that sets me up for a slow exit from the corkscrew which puts me on the wrong side of the track for the challenging turn 9. Which would seem favorable, but when I fix the corkscrew it means I'll start turn 9 from the center of the track rather than the outside, further eroding confidence and consistency, and turn 9 is not easy! I did learn what happens if you drive without consistency. I won't make that vid public, but my front lip is cracked and the paint chipped a bunch. My car's show days are over :)

I will get it tho. persistence!
 

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Thanks, still learning! Actually, I didn't realize until the end of the day that I'm not using the whole track. Saw it in the pictures from the photographer and in the vids here. Look how far away I am on the corkscrew from the yellow sausage! that sets me up for a slow exit from the corkscrew which puts me on the wrong side of the track for the challenging turn 9. Which would seem favorable, but when I fix the corkscrew it means I'll start turn 9 from the center of the track rather than the outside, further eroding confidence and consistency, and turn 9 is not easy! I did learn what happens if you drive without consistency. I won't make that vid public, but my front lip is cracked and the paint chipped a bunch. My car's show days are over :)

I will get it tho. persistence!
Indeed, blue tape is for more than just number plates makes for a quickie bra.
I cant find the same pathway twice in a row from braking into CS thru to braking for the last RH ?10? just a hot mess of red mist
 

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Entering the corkscrew your only reference points are the trees. But locate the one that's right for you and they will help you get pointed in the right direction. Turn 9 is off camber and you can get drifting across the track pretty easily. That's a lot of fun but will completely screw up your entry into turn 10!!!
 
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