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Not really. despite my best efforts I'm putting lap times down like Marge



We're not on track together, 'cause Jimbo is in a different league than me. I just moved up from Green to Blue :)

Took 2 days driving buttonwillow to get down to 2:25's, meanwhile gold group miatas with zero power mods are doing 2:15's and better. I won't even say my lap time at LS in Feb cause it was my first track day..... ever. :) I anticipate HUGE improvements, but Jimbo would still pass me like I'm driving like Marge :). 1:45 is not even on my radar, not even with the same tires. The driver is everything.

Had a turbo failure (shut off, not broken) for one session at buttonwillow and my lap times didn't change. Talk about an eye opener! But it sure would save my brakes, 'cause I didn't use them! Just WOT and drove miss daisy around the track. But SUPER illustrative about braking points (with real power), smooth lines, and realizing the GLA45 needs to drive the Porsche GT3 line, NOT the Miata line. It was like driving a Mercedes-Benz brand s2000.

Anyway, the learning lesson is that I'm not driving up to the car yet. Thus purchasing the springs and sway bars, and I'm back down to 355 HP. I much prefer 435, but it just doesn't translate to lower lap times for me yet. I end up just accelerating up to the corner, over braking, cruising around the corner, then WOT to the next corner. 355 HP will force better driving technique.

But I'm all registered up for LS, so I'm going! Gonna keep this up for 2-3 days a year. Goal is LS 2x and then another track 1x, like Thunderhill or BW or Sonoma, annually. Sooner or later I'll figure it out, but the truth is these days I'm not targeting lap times like Jimbo, I'm targeting technique. I figure the good lap times will come naturally once technique is internalized.

This will be especially fun cause I'm blue group now. I pass 90% of the greens and a few blues when combined, but being solidly blue puts me at the bottom of the pack all over again. Strong motivator not to be the arse at the bottom!
 

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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
Not really. despite my best efforts I'm putting lap times down like Marge



We're not on track together, 'cause Jimbo is in a different league than me. I just moved up from Green to Blue :)

Took 2 days driving buttonwillow to get down to 2:25's, meanwhile gold group miatas with zero power mods are doing 2:15's and better. I won't even say my lap time at LS in Feb cause it was my first track day..... ever. :) I anticipate HUGE improvements, but Jimbo would still pass me like I'm driving like Marge :). 1:45 is not even on my radar, not even with the same tires. The driver is everything.

Had a turbo failure (shut off, not broken) for one session at buttonwillow and my lap times didn't change. Talk about an eye opener! But it sure would save my brakes, 'cause I didn't use them! Just WOT and drove miss daisy around the track. But SUPER illustrative about braking points (with real power), smooth lines, and realizing the GLA45 needs to drive the Porsche GT3 line, NOT the Miata line. It was like driving a Mercedes-Benz brand s2000.

Anyway, the learning lesson is that I'm not driving up to the car yet. Thus purchasing the springs and sway bars, and I'm back down to 355 HP. I much prefer 435, but it just doesn't translate to lower lap times for me yet. I end up just accelerating up to the corner, over braking, cruising around the corner, then WOT to the next corner. 355 HP will force better driving technique.

But I'm all registered up for LS, so I'm going! Gonna keep this up for 2-3 days a year. Goal is LS 2x and then another track 1x, like Thunderhill or BW or Sonoma, annually. Sooner or later I'll figure it out, but the truth is these days I'm not targeting lap times like Jimbo, I'm targeting technique. I figure the good lap times will come naturally once technique is internalized.

This will be especially fun cause I'm blue group now. I pass 90% of the greens and a few blues when combined, but being solidly blue puts me at the bottom of the pack all over again. Strong motivator not to be the arse at the bottom!
The scary part is that I always drive like this, I just don't get busted on the track. I think you would not see much difference in the lines we drive, the big difference is the
longer acceleration and late braking. Having 500hp, springs and bars doesn't hurt either.
 

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Not now, not much difference. at LS I had an instructor so he dragged me around the proper line every time. I watch your vids, we drive the same line except for two differences:

1. Turn 2, I was taking the Miata line. Double apex. That "may" stop. I will try an early apex double, and a sweeper, and see which I like better. I believe the GT3 line is an early apex with a deeper lobe before the second apex. It might also be sweeper like. I'll see.

2. Post corkscrew, also Miata line, which is 100% wrong I see now. That stops now forever. Miatas are coming out so slow they have time to track out all the way to the right for turn 9, and I can't get there. Now I know why. The Porsche GT3 line tracks out mid track on this turn. Now I totally get why. That's the line I take now.

Braking is for sure the #1 cause for my high lap times. I don't have the hang of it yet. I'm thinking about the advanced driver training again just for that purpose, but not sure I'll go there for this trip out. I probably should.
 

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Playing around with RaceRender more, adding picture in picture. This was a slow day because the traffic was beyond ridiculous. But the good news is, I'm moving up to blue group, so now the slow guy is gonna be me for the foreseeable future.



Just trying to keep myself pumped up while waiting for those H&R springs to get made. Lead time is long on those guys. Got the sway bars, will do it all at once so I just have to get alignment the one time. :)
 

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Next lap. After some reflection, I have come to like CCW1 more than CW13. Though clockwise is a much, much faster track and probably develops more natural skill than CCW. There was something about CCW that makes me want to try it again. Definitely recommended.

 

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****! H&R springs are OOS until after my DE day at Laguna. looking to see if I can find a vendor with "in-hand" stock, but not looking good.

Got the sway bars, but I don't want to get the car aligned twice. Tough choice here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
****! H&R springs are OOS until after my DE day at Laguna. looking to see if I can find a vendor with "in-hand" stock, but not looking good.

Got the sway bars, but I don't want to get the car aligned twice. Tough choice here.
Have you checked on ebay for vendors, that's where I found my sway bars in Germany with free shipping.
 

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Yes sir, the outfit in Germany had one left. Ordered, shipped yesterday and somehow they anticipate it will arrive on Monday? That's crazy if true, but we will see. Either way, I have several weeks to sort out installation before LS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
Yes sir, the outfit in Germany had one left. Ordered, shipped yesterday and somehow they anticipate it will arrive on Monday? That's crazy if true, but we will see. Either way, I have several weeks to sort out installation before LS.
I don't know how they do this, when they sent me the wrong one, one bar was going to cost $650 in shipping just to return it to Germany. Mine showed up in 2 days as well, crazy! Make sure when you get it the front bars are the same, but the rear bar for the 4-matic has a bump for the transmission, make sure you have the bump in it.
 

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I've had my bars for a couple weeks. Based on your advice, I called H&R, I called Vivid, everyone confirmed the part number was right, and H&R even said their test car was an AMG. Not sure how else I could have verified again, so it better be the right part!

I see a hump in the middle...

Wood Sleeve Automotive exterior Table Fish


I reeeeeeally wish they came with step by step instructions for install. I got all the tools I need to do the work at home (pretty sure) but I've never dropped the sub frame of any car or have a good visual for it, always worry about taking the wrong bolt out before suspension loads are properly supported, etc. I work on million-dollar machines so the wrenching I am totally confident, if I just had a procedure for this specific machine... I know it's not rocket science, just haven't done it before yet. Anyways, would be a nice way to save a kilobuck on the install then take the car to get alignment and be GTG.
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
I've had my bars for a couple weeks. Based on your advice, I called H&R, I called Vivid, everyone confirmed the part number was right, and H&R even said their test car was an AMG. Not sure how else I could have verified again, so it better be the right part!

I see a hump in the middle...

View attachment 27087

I reeeeeeally wish they came with step by step instructions for install. I got all the tools I need to do the work at home (pretty sure) but I've never dropped the sub frame of any car or have a good visual for it, always worry about taking the wrong bolt out before suspension loads are properly supported, etc. I work on million-dollar machines so the wrenching I am totally confident, if I just had a procedure for this specific machine... I know it's not rocket science, just haven't done it before yet. Anyways, would be a nice way to save a kilobuck on the install then take the car to get alignment and be GTG.

Looks like the right ones! I was going to do it myself, but don't have a good/safe way to drop the subframe. The rear didn't look too bad and was going to do that one myself. In the end, I just paid the "kilobuck" to get it done. My mechanic started work at 4pm one afternoon and when I called the next morning at 8am he said it was already done. They said they had 2 guys working until midnight that night to get it done. And they had the right tools, lift, ect.
 

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Yep! 28th. My goal is to be all set up by then.

I'm starting to see why the sway bar install could be painful.

I have access to the MB maintenance database, so I started downloading procedures on how to remove and install the front and rear sway bars.

Unfortunately the MB database is the worst procedure database ever. No procedure is more than ~ 10 steps long, and of those 10 steps, 4 of them are links to follow on procedures. For example, removing some heat shield near the firewall might be a 6 step procedure, but step 2 says "Remove the engine. follow this procedure". 6 step procedure my butt! That's a fake example, but illustrates the point.

For the front, some follow-on steps are: removing the sub frame, removing the struts, removing the front axle. yay. For the rear, the instructions say remove the rear differential. Actually, it says "lower" the rear differential by using XXX procedure. That procedure is differential removal, and includes all the steps to open it completely, drain the oil, etc. Doesn't say "how far" to go before you can drop it down onto a support. Or if you have to open it up and drain it out.

So far I've downloaded 15+ procedures to change both sway bars.

remove wiper arm
remove activated charcoal canister (I didn't know we even HAD this)
remove differential
remove rack and pinion steering
remove rear spring
remove all underbody panels
remove headlamp range adjustment
remove rear shock absorber

It goes on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #100 ·
Yep! 28th. My goal is to be all set up by then.

I'm starting to see why the sway bar install could be painful.

I have access to the MB maintenance database, so I started downloading procedures on how to remove and install the front and rear sway bars.

Unfortunately the MB database is the worst procedure database ever. No procedure is more than ~ 10 steps long, and of those 10 steps, 4 of them are links to follow on procedures. For example, removing some heat shield near the firewall might be a 6 step procedure, but step 2 says "Remove the engine. follow this procedure". 6 step procedure my butt! That's a fake example, but illustrates the point.

For the front, some follow-on steps are: removing the sub frame, removing the struts, removing the front axle. yay. For the rear, the instructions say remove the rear differential. Actually, it says "lower" the rear differential by using XXX procedure. That procedure is differential removal, and includes all the steps to open it completely, drain the oil, etc. Doesn't say "how far" to go before you can drop it down onto a support. Or if you have to open it up and drain it out.

So far I've downloaded 15+ procedures to change both sway bars.

remove wiper arm
remove activated charcoal canister (I didn't know we even HAD this)
remove differential
remove rack and pinion steering
remove rear spring
remove all underbody panels
remove headlamp range adjustment
remove rear shock absorber

It goes on.
Now you see why I paid the $1000.00. My time (and knuckles) are worth more than $10/hr. (lol) I know Stance Labs in San Ramon would do it (~$1200), they started mine but realized it was the wrong bar and I subsequently found another local place to do it for me for $1000. I will have to see about Sunday race.
 
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