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Discussion Starter #1
I have a GLA250 with the standard audio system (Audio 20?) and am interested in adding a compact subwoofer like the Kenwood KSC-SW11 Compact Powered Enclosed Subwoofer https://amzn.com/B00BO8O9XQ
I glanced under both front seats and there are some modules under there that take up the space I think I need for this unit (but I could be wrong, I haven't purchased the sub yet for final fitment). I plan to run power from the start/stop AGM battery located under the right front dash area. I think due to space constraints under the seats, I will have to mount the unit in the rear under floor storage compartment. Does anyone have any tips for this installation? I don't want to pull the radio, so I plan to tap into a speaker wire somewhere. I'll also need to tap into a switched source so the sub will turn on when the radio is powered. If anyone has any experience or tips specific to this vehicle, I'm all ears. I think with a little added bass hit, the system will meet my needs.

Thanks,
Jeff
 

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Hi!
I'm looking for the same type of upgrade on my audio system !! No problem to mount them! The problem is to connect it :(


Skickat från min iPad med Tapatalk
 

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I like the pioneer package. Out of curiosity - did the 12v adapter come with it? If not - can you point me to where you got it? Do you have any issues with the amp drawing more the the fuse in the 12v port can handle? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm planning on installing the Kicker Hideaway subwoofer in the next few days in my GLA250 with the standard system. I'm planning on installing it in the rear underfloor storage area and was wondering if anyone knew if the wiring harness for the OEM Harman Kardon subwoofer is there and "active" even though I don't have the HK system. This would make install a breeze. I'm probably going to steal power from the 12v port thats back there already (unless the harness is there and powered). The harness would provide easy access to a speaker signal. Has anyone attempted to track down the nearest or easiest to tap into speaker level signal?

Thanks
Jeff
 

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I like the pioneer package. Out of curiosity - did the 12v adapter come with it? If not - can you point me to where you got it? Do you have any issues with the amp drawing more the the fuse in the 12v port can handle? Thanks.
The Pioneer has been running with a 10A fuse in it for years, I think it came with a 15A.
My last car had a 10A limit per socket so I just popped a 10A fuse in to try it and it has never blown, and that's giving it some stick with Reggae.
FYI, the GLA socket has a 15A limit anyhow, but I left the smaller 10A in the sub loom.

It comes with all the wiring, but you will need to get a cigarette plug to complete, got mine off FleaBay.
 

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I like the pioneer package. Out of curiosity - did the 12v adapter come with it? If not - can you point me to where you got it? Do you have any issues with the amp drawing more the the fuse in the 12v port can handle? Thanks.
The Pioneer has been running with a 10A fuse in it for years, I think it came with a 15A.
My last car had a 10A limit per socket so I just popped a 10A fuse in to try it and it has never blown, and that's giving it some stick with Reggae.
FYI, the GLA socket has a 15A limit anyhow, but I left the smaller 10A in the sub loom.

It comes with all the wiring, but you will need to get a cigarette plug to complete, got mine off FleaBay.
Still waiting for a write up. I figured out where to get the signal but can't figure out the power part. Well I'm trying to avoid the firewall, not hard but it's best to get power from the lighter
 

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Power comes from the 12V outlet in trunk.

It switches off when car is locked, back on again when car started. You then don't have to bother connecting up the "blue" signal wire that all subs have, that controls this function "if you connect direct to battery"

I will "try" to get some pics, It don't help that is dark all the time now.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update: I installed the Kicker Hideaway on my non Harman Kardon system last night. Took about three hours and it went super well. I'm very pleased with the outcome. Unfortunately, I didn't photograph the process, but I can generally describe what I did. I ended up tapping into the power from the same 12V socket that Mercedes.AMG did. I didn't plug into the socket though, I unplugged the connector on the backside and spliced into it. I ended up getting speaker signal all the way from the driver side kick panel area. There's a connector right at the base of the door that has speaker + and -. (I gathered this information from a CLA forum: DIY - Adding aftermarket active subwoofer to improve factory sound system (Non HK)). I pulled the plastic panels off and ran speaker wire from the "spare tire" area to the front. I ended up pulling the left rear sill, B-pillar base, left front door sill and left front kick panels to provide complete access from front to back. I was able to run the wires alongside the factory bundle so there's no way to tell that I added anything. I ran the connector to the Kicker completely hidden until it pops out under the big door to the spare tire area. There's absolutely nothing visible until you open that big door to the spare tire area and then all you see is the Sub and a couple of wires. I'm very impressed with how much bass that little thing can produce. Don't expect to win audio competitions but the before and after is dramatic. I still need to organize the wires and fine tune the sound, so please don't judge me on that :) .



Jeff
 

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I was planning the same install Jeff_KTM350 did but it looks like you beat me to it by a week. I did the quick and dirty way - which was to only remove the front L/R kick panels to access the speaker wires. As mentioned - they are right there in front of you. I found it odd that both the L and R side of the car had green (+) and green/brown (-). I used simple wire taps with spade terminals to access them. Rather than disassemble the other panels and run the wires the correct way - I simply tucked the speaker wire under the panels all of the way to the back of the car. Can't see anything and it made the install a breeze (about 30 minutes). I will say that pulling the panels up takes a significant amount of strength and I was terrified I'd break the panel in the process.

For the power / ground, I followed Mercedes.AMG's lead and used a cheap 15A cigarette lighter converted from amazon (MotoCity™ Heavy-Duty 15A Male Plug Cigarette Lighter Adapter Power Supply Cord with 1M/3.3FT Cable Wire For Car inverter,Air pump,electric cup). I left the soldered the inline fuse that kicker provided between the adapter and the amplifier (2 fuses is better than one in my book - especially when using a Chinese-made adapter to handle the power AND ground) and based on my math I don't think I will come close to drawing a full 15A. No alternator noise or issues given the modest power requirements of the speaker.

Overall I was surprised how well the sub sounded from the boot of the car. I have the bass turned down on the EQ to prevent the door speakers from rattling the door panels off and it sounds quite good. Still a number of rattles and squeaks in the car that I am disappointed with. If anyone has any suggestions for fixing the rattles / creaks that are not permanent (car is a lease) - please share your thoughts.
 

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I just bought my first Mercedes, a 2018 GLA 250 and found this awesome forum for GLA owners! I have the stock stereo and want to follow the great instructions that you guys gave to install a sub to give it some punch. I was recommended to get the JBL GT BASSPRO12 which gets crazy good reviews on Amazon and BestBuy. It has a 150 watt RMS and 450 watt peak amplifier. I really want to use the 15A cigarette lighter in the back like you guys did. My question, is that too much power to put through the cigarette lighter? Is there any risk or would it just blow the fuse with no harm done if it did try to draw too much power?

Thanks so much!!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The specs on that JBL unit list the max draw at 13.5 amps. You SHOULD be fine. If it pops the fuse, you know you'll have to run a dedicated power wire.
 

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Thanks so much for the reply Jeff! After waffling back and forth I decided to copy you guys and go with the Kicker. The fact that it is hidden and doesn't take up most of the cargo area is too valuable to pass up. Question for you. Do I need to take off the kick panels on both the left and right sides of the car to get the right and left audio speaker wires? (or are the both available from the driver's side?) Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks so much for the reply Jeff! After waffling back and forth I decided to copy you guys and go with the Kicker. The fact that it is hidden and doesn't take up most of the cargo area is too valuable to pass up. Question for you. Do I need to take off the kick panels on both the left and right sides of the car to get the right and left audio speaker wires? (or are the both available from the driver's side?) Thanks!
I only used the left side speaker wire. Bass frequencies are mono, not stereo, so you don't lose any sound information by just tapping into the one channel of the audio. I have to say that having the sub hidden under the load floor in the back is great. We're already so limited by the cargo space back there, I wouldn't want to sacrifice any.

Jeff
 

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Sry to bug u again Jeff. I'm excited to receive and install my Kicker. Did you have to order any additional wiring or parts outside of what comes with the Kicker? Also, did you cut the speaker wires to splice or use spade terminals to plug into the sides of those connectors? Thanks so much!
 

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Sry to bug u again Jeff. I'm excited to receive and install my Kicker. Did you have to order any additional wiring or parts outside of what comes with the Kicker? Also, did you cut the speaker wires to splice or use spade terminals to plug into the sides of those connectors? Thanks so much!
No worries, you're not bugging me at all, I like to help when I can. As far as the connections, I don't remember for sure, but I generally prefer to solder and heat shrink connections. I feel as though it's the most permanent why to connect wires. It's likely that I cut the speaker wires and soldered the them all together. The wiring in the vehicle is very well done. Under the interior trim panels below the doors there is a "channel" with a bundle of wires in it running from the front to the back of the vehicle. I added the new wires to that. I provided a few more details and a helpful link earlier in this thread. Good Luck!

Jeff
 

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Ive been in too many situations where i've filled the trunk up to 95% volume with cargo. I prefer to not add anything more into the trunk area.

Any recommendations for an alternate area? I was going to put a powered sub like those mentioned above under the driver seat but all the motors/circuits and vents for the Amg performance seats will not allow it. Maybe under the glove box area/foot well?
 
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