Mercedes-Benz GLA Forum banner
1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
636 Posts
Less. I expect 2.5k for four corners and have a quote for about 1.3k for just the fronts. That is dealer pricing. Our brakes are NOT cheap.

which is why I tagged along with a coworker to do his brakes for training, then bought all the tools and material to do brakes by myself.

spent about $700 in material for 4 corners and maybe $500 in tools (I bought very fancy jack stands for $350) and now I will never pay for a brake job again. AND, I got race pads and fluid while I was at it.

Brakes are so easy and un-messy to do including fluid.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
The quote you got sounds correct, and yes, it is not cheap. There is the choice to do it yourself if that's an option for you.

I haven't needed to do the brakes on my GLA45 yet, but just did them on our 2014 E350. Dealer quoted $2,000 USD. I bought the proper Brembo replacement rotors and pads all the way around for about $600 if I remember correctly, and did it all myself. That's an easier vehicle though, so I'll need some education before going after the GLA brakes. All easy to find online!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
272 Posts
When I got my 2017 as a CPO it came with a $3k maintenance sheet that was a full brake job and pretty sure 2 new tires (around $500 each) so that $2k quote from RichZilla above is about what to expect from the dealer.

On my old 2015 my indi quoted me something like $1900 for a full brake job with all MB genuine parts. That included an alignment for like $150 or so, so it probably would’ve been ~$1700 without.

If I can find the sheets I’ll update this with the actual numbers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
262 Posts
The rear pads are around $200 OEM, the fronts may be $198. I think doing brakes doesn't void the warranty..
As far as the rest, be careful with the bleeders, I would use a torque wrench to tighten them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Just replaced my rear pads and rotors and it was about $800. I also upgraded the rotors from the stockers so it'd be about $100 less if I'd used an OEM style rear rotor. BTW the mechanic said our front brake assembly is the same as a fricken' G wagon. He thinks we could do a front brake stand if the rear brakes were disconnected. He promised me he wouldn't try it on my car though. ;)

Bicycle Tire Bicycles--Equipment and supplies Wheel Bicycle wheel
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
262 Posts
You may have bad surprises with partial brake upgrades.
And as far as G Wagon, Mercedes likely sources the calipers.
A place like Brembo has 3 lines of product: OEM, GT & GTR.
If you look at the GT catalog and compare one caliper to another, often time they look the same from the outside. But the diameter of the piston is slightly different, or the radial position is different.
Even a caliper that is identical, if the point of application of the braking force is offset further from the center of the rotor, the resulting braking torque is quite different. Conversely, for a lighter vehicle, if the G Wagon calipers were to be associated with a smaller diameter rotor, the braking torque would quickly decrease.
In the Brembo catalog, the caliper application is designated through a range of rotor diameters.

As far as upgrading the rears only, there are a few factors there. One that should not be ignored is that the ABS system has its bias and calibration.
The way the ABS really works depends on how the car loses traction during braking.
During braking, weight transfer occurs. The weight transfer is directly dependent on the compression properties of the front and rear suspension.
If less weight transfer was to occur, for instance by double adjustable suspension, where you adjust the compression resistance to high, then the front axle having less weight starts to lose traction sooner. The ABS with multiple channels intervenes on the front brakes, while leaving the rears alone. But it relies on very high pressure and on a pressure reserve located in an accumulator.
Once the reserve in the accumulator is exhausted, or say reduced, the intervention on the rears, is much reduced, when it is needed.
The result? Longer braking distance. An upgrade with the shocks, turned into a braking downgrade.

What happens if you upgrade the front brakes only? without a corresponding suspension recalibration, the increased front baking torque, doesn't come with an increased weight transfer during braking and the overall weight of the car probably didn't increase. So therefore the front axle requires early ABS intervention, with the result described above.

What happens if you upgrade the rear brakes only? The rear brakes are designed to operate with a rear axle weight reduced during braking. If the rear brakes were to be more powerful (with more brake torque) than the front brakes and there was no attenuator, meaning the front and rear brake application would take place absolutely simultaneous, the car would swap ends under braking. I write this because I have seen this. I have seen this while working in a shop where a colleague had his dad's car which had been built in the 70's. bAck then there was a mechanical brake distribution device on the rear axle. You could use that to effectively get the rear to brake more than the front. The car swapped ends 3 times under emergency braking in the parking lot.
BTW, this is one of the reasons to have "slower brakes" on the rear axle: Drums on the rear, with disks on the front, floating calipers in the rear with fixed in the front. With disc front and rear, there is an attenuator for the rear.

So by upgrading rear brakes only, a number of bad things can happen:
1. The normal weight transfer under braking causes the ABS to intervene early, because the increased rear braking torque has the rear axle to lose traction early. By the time the front needs ABS pressure, the accumulator is now almost empty and the ABS is largely ineffective.
2. The rear upgrade is so dramatic (in the Japanese car forums, they tried to install front Porsche brakes on the rear car axle), that there is no more attenuation of the rear axle braking and the car swaps ends under braking.

I know this because I tried this, had adjustable suspension with partial brake upgrade on my Subaru. Had to let the car dive more under braking via suspension adjustment and even when I replaced the rear brakes to bring a balance to my brake upgrade, the programing of the ABS was for totally different brakes and it was only a partial success. I tend to believe that even if someone would grant you access into ABS programing, extensive research would be needed to reprogram it for your brake upgrade.
 

·
Registered
2018 Gla250/4matic mountain grey option 1 and more
Joined
·
16 Posts
I am the mgr at a tire and auto repair center with a national chain. That’s an insane amount of money I would charge 110.00 for lifetime warranty pads, your rear rotors are about 80.00 each pads sensor is 28.00 and 135.00 for labor the dealership is always higher, customer would receive a two year 24k warranty.
 

·
Registered
2017 GLA45 AMG
Joined
·
6 Posts
Replacing brakes on my GLA45 2017, front pads HAWK Ceramic (HB795Z.618) $105 with tax and free shipping, and got rear pads AKEBONO Ceramic EUR1630 for about $72, all front and back pads included sensors, two per package. Labor at the local shop is about $100 per axle without replacing the discs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
295 Posts
I am the mgr at a tire and auto repair center with a national chain. That’s an insane amount of money I would charge 110.00 for lifetime warranty pads, your rear rotors are about 80.00 each pads sensor is 28.00 and 135.00 for labor the dealership is always higher, customer would receive a two year 24k warranty.
Did you catch this is an AMG?

I also didn't like the idea of just doing fronts, then doing rears later. My fronts were getting close at about 28k but rear were ok and could have gone on a number of thousand miles. Dealer also said rotors were ok, but you can't turn these to smooth them, and they were grooved. So I didn't want to just do new pads all around and have them squealing like crazy.

The pricing is correct if you go to dealer with AMG OEM stuff. Here is one suggestion....this time of year I bought OEM AMG complete package of slotted/drilled rotors, pads and new sensor off ebay. All in MB/made in germany boxes. OEM part numbers all new. This cost me just under $800. This time of year, the normal cost was over $900, but then the MB parts seller (a business, not an individual) provided a discount, and then ebay wants sales this time of year and did one of their 10% off deals, and voila, less than 800. Install earlier this year, by dealer, they had no issue with these OEM pieces, labor was a beetch, so I think all 4 new AMG OEM rotors and pads installed by MB cost me about $1400 (about 600 labor). Otherwise this would have been near $2k. No noise with braking. As mentioned, you can do this install yourself, I choose not to, but you can have all new OEM AMG brakes for less than $900 if you choose to do yourself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
I just replaced my wife's OEM pads with Powerstop Ceramic (same pads I have on my F80 M3) and it cost me like $90 and a couple hours of my time. Probably the biggest advantage to these is no brake dust whatsoever. Maybe not as much initial bite as the OEMs but still good. I swear my wife's wheels were brown (black multi-spoke) with years of pad dust caked into them. If anyone cars these are the part numbers:

POWER STOP Z231630
POWER STOP Z231634

I got them from RockAuto.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
636 Posts
I'm using Hawk HPS 5.0. they do what I need for now. I don't give a fig for rotor life or dust (or these days frankly, noise), so if I go for EBC it will be yellowstuff min or stronger. As it is I have more traction than braking, so pretty sure the greenstuff won't keep up.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
351 Posts
I'm using Hawk HPS 5.0. they do what I need for now. I don't give a fig for rotor life or dust (or these days frankly, noise), so if I go for EBC it will be yellowstuff min or stronger. As it is I have more traction than braking, so pretty sure the greenstuff won't keep up.
balancing track day with DD is a big ask, but I suppose dropping pads in is proly more than a half hour job
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
I just replaced my wife's OEM pads with Powerstop Ceramic (same pads I have on my F80 M3) and it cost me like $90 and a couple hours of my time. Probably the biggest advantage to these is no brake dust whatsoever. Maybe not as much initial bite as the OEMs but still good. I swear my wife's wheels were brown (black multi-spoke) with years of pad dust caked into them. If anyone cars these are the part numbers:

POWER STOP Z231630
POWER STOP Z231634

I got them from RockAuto.
I replaced the dusty, grabby OEM pads with a set of Powerstop Z23s. Excellent pads for a daily (street) driver - Zero noise, no dusting, and they have a nice progressive bite. They're inexpensive, and should outlast the stock pads 2 x 1.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
272 Posts
I think it was time i needed to replace my rear brake (47k miles). I got a quote for full rear pads and rotors replacement over $1k. Is this more than what you guys expected? Thanks.
Just had my rears done today. I wore em right down and they were pretty squeaky. Dropped the car off to my indi shop just after 9am and got a text before 1pm that the car was done. No squeaks or noise what so ever now.

Here’s what I paid:

Rectangle Font Circle Wood Handwriting

Receipt Font Circle Number Label
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,083 Posts
Just had my rears done today. I wore em right down and they were pretty squeaky. Dropped the car off to my indi shop just after 9am and got a text before 1pm that the car was done. No squeaks or noise what so ever now.

Here’s what I paid:
Is your GLA a 250 or a 45, and what year? Work done by indy or dealer?
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top