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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi fellow GLA owners

I’m new to the owners club, I’m picking my baby up this coming weekend hopefully, it’s a 2015 model, only has 38k km on, really well looked after, I’m really excited about it, because she’s just beautiful but a guy told me that the 2015 model GLA’s had transmission issues, i tried reading up on it but haven’t found a lot about transmission issues other than it’s a little laggy in C mode, is there any other issues I should be concerned about? Hope to hear from you all

Happy km’s
 

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To minimize lag MB changed the gear ratios for 2016 and added more power. Because of this enthusiasts favor 2016 and later models.

There were changes made in late 2016 to strengthen the output shaft.

There are a lot of 2015 models that have been fine. It's difficult to put numbers on these things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
To minimize lag MB chamber the gear ratios for 2016 and added more power. Because of this enthusiasts favor 2016 and later models.

There were changes made in late 2016 to strengthen the output shaft.

There are a lot of 2015 models that have been fine. It's difficult to put numbers on these things.
Thanks for the reply, so I don’t have to be too concerned about any transmission issues on the 2015 model and i can just leave it as it is
 

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I don't know of any updates so I'm not sure what you would do to a 2015 car.

As with any used car purchase ... Get a good PPI and set aside funds for all maintenance items based on both time and mileage excluding anything you have receipts for.
 

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Hi fellow GLA owners

I’m new to the owners club, I’m picking my baby up this coming weekend hopefully, it’s a 2015 model, only has 38k km on, really well looked after, I’m really excited about it, because she’s just beautiful but a guy told me that the 2015 model GLA’s had transmission issues, i tried reading up on it but haven’t found a lot about transmission issues other than it’s a little laggy in C mode, is there any other issues I should be concerned about? Hope to hear from you all

Happy km’s
Hi there! I have a 2015 GLA 250, bought with 35K on her In 2018. Learned in 2021 there is a common problem with these cars, the differential needs replacing with low miles (48k for me) at the price of $6000!!! Mercedes takes no responsibility, and this is out of pocket for everyone! Trying to get a class action started but no one listens to me. Let me know if this happens to you.
susan
 

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I've heard of cases of this failure. I suspect that if this happens most people will search on line and post their problems, but of course that would not be 100% of the actual problems that get reported.

That being said, I don't let my diff oil go any further than 10K miles before changing. With each change the oil comes out looking like new. I doubt there's a lot of heat in the diff to discolor the oil. I haven't done a UOA to evaluate metals in the oil or shear (loss of viscosity) of the oil as well as other things.
 

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I would recommend maintenance when you get it.....tranny fluid (which also tackles front axle) and rear diff fluid. This gives you the best chance of not having issues. I did mine early, not following a schedule. This coming year I will do the rear diff fluid again, at near 10k since last done. Have 29.5k miles at this point and no issues with trans or rear axle. One Q though, with 38k km on ODO, how are the brakes, done recently? Pads are not that expensive, but replacing rotors gets costly. I got a really great deal on OEM AMG pads/rotors a couple years back and just had everything replaced by the dealer, the labor was expensive. Had I bought everything from the dealer it likely would have cost me near $2k, not the $1300 in parts/labor in total I paid.
 
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I've got almost 85K miles on my 2015. The only problem I've had so far is a broken exhaust flap actuator at about 50K miles. The car does plenty of spirited canyon carving in manual mode but it doesn't get launched. I've seen enough expensive AWD cars toast clutches, transmissions and half-shafts from stop lights. I'm also fortunate that there's a local independent shop that specializes in AMG's that I'll use for service intervals. After saying all that I still believe a car will only last as long as you drive it to last.
 

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I have not had any strange issues that "the internet" hasn't well documented on my 2015 45.

Exhaust flap clockspring snapped
PCV valve clogged
Thermostat stuck open
star came off the engine cover
Half AMG logo came off the front grille

That's about it. Other than that, standard PMs other than my car tires seem to be nail magnets. I follow the std MB schedule. I flush brake fluid more often. If you guys keep harping on the rear diff, I might just advance that schedule, but for now I follow the documented sched.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have not had any strange issues that "the internet" hasn't well documented on my 2015 45.

Exhaust flap clockspring snapped
PCV valve clogged
Thermostat stuck open
star came off the engine cover
Half AMG logo came off the front grille

That's about it. Other than that, standard PMs other than my car tires seem to be nail magnets. I follow the std MB schedule. I flush brake fluid more often. If you guys keep harping on the rear diff, I might just advance that schedule, but for now I follow the documented sched.
Thanks for the reply, i spoke to both dealerships close to me and they said they’ve never had any problems, the one guy in service is real good and told me if you go and search the internet you will find all kinds of horror stories of any car, so I’m just keeping the maintenance up to date and just take good care of the car in general and other than that i love every second of her
 

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BTW I don't have the car heavily modified, but there is a chip tune (dyno at 345 whp on 91 oct) and high flow intake. I tracked three times (four days) this year and hope to keep that about that rate moving forward. So my car is far from a show queen, even if I'm nowhere near the 600 bHP crazy builds folks are doing. I'm still beating on the car a little bit. I don't "do canyon runs" or drive recklessly on the freeway but the track does a pretty good job of destroying the tires and putting the engine through thermal cycles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
BTW I don't have the car heavily modified, but there is a chip tune (dyno at 345 whp on 91 oct) and high flow intake. I tracked three times (four days) this year and hope to keep that about that rate moving forward. So my car is far from a show queen, even if I'm nowhere near the 600 bHP crazy builds folks are doing. I'm still beating on the car a little bit. I don't "do canyon runs" or drive recklessly on the freeway but the track does a pretty good job of destroying the tires and putting the engine through thermal cycles.
I’m glad you mentioned that, I’m looking into getting the Renntech HHT that takes it from 355hp to 428hp and is worried that she won’t be able to take that amount of power, but like i said i drive like a grandma but just the odd time here and there where you want to get a good acceleration or just hear the exhaust a little bit but apart from that she’s being babied, do you think she’ll be happy doing taking it all the way up to 428hp?
 

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Sure. You're talking brake horsepower. "They say" the 4matic has an 18% drivetrain loss, so translating my wHP to bHP with that filter means I'm making 435 bHP. You'll be fine. There are folks doing WAY more, albeit with an upgraded turbo. I'm running the OEM turbo.

If you don't drive road courses energetically, or never plan to push your tires to 100% laterally, don't forget the pedal commander. If I were the kind of driver that never drove track but wanted to "race" teslas on freeway onramps, I'd have kept mine in. It's not good for feathering the gas to control weight distribution in the car (read: no good for track IMO), but for straight line acceleration, where you can never push on the gas fast enough, it's great. Turns the pedal into an on-off switch, which is today how most manufacturers are scamming people into thinking their family sedans have good pick-up-and-go. (push the gas to 20% throttle and you gain speed fast, but then there's no difference between 20% and 90%)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sure. You're talking brake horsepower. "They say" the 4matic has an 18% drivetrain loss, so translating my wHP to bHP with that filter means I'm making 435 bHP. You'll be fine. There are folks doing WAY more, albeit with an upgraded turbo. I'm running the OEM turbo.
Nice, well then she’s going to get bumped up here soon
 

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I have not had any strange issues that "the internet" hasn't well documented on my 2015 45.

Exhaust flap clockspring snapped
PCV valve clogged
Thermostat stuck open
star came off the engine cover
Half AMG logo came off the front grille

That's about it. Other than that, standard PMs other than my car tires seem to be nail magnets. I follow the std MB schedule. I flush brake fluid more often. If you guys keep harping on the rear diff, I might just advance that schedule, but for now I follow the documented sched.
I had the same issue with half the AMG logo falling off the front grill. The silver dashes fell off of the black plastic piece. I see replacements on eBay for under $20 USD, but these include the entire black plastic piece to be applied with adhesive tape. How were you able to remove the old back plastic piece? It looks like it is screwed on.
 

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Forgot one other major issue I had.

Search for violent jerks on hard acceleration. (and I'm not talking about other motorists har har)

The root cause is a failing camshaft sensor. The part retails for about $60 (cheaper online) and is easily accessible from the top of the engine and held in with a single bolt, it takes about 5 minutes to swap out by yourself at home. And the car drives fine while you are waiting for the part to come in. But it's seriously jarring when it happens :)
 

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Forgot one other major issue I had.

Search for violent jerks on hard acceleration. (and I'm not talking about other motorists har har)

The root cause is a failing camshaft sensor. The part retails for about $60 (cheaper online) and is easily accessible from the top of the engine and held in with a single bolt, it takes about 5 minutes to swap out by yourself at home. And the car drives fine while you are waiting for the part to come in. But it's seriously jarring when it happens :)
Whiterabbitt, I searched for this but I don't see anything related to cam sensor. I do see other "jerky" posts, but do you have a part number or any pic of where this is installed? When did this happen to you mileage wise?
 

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Round 65k for me. It's on top of the engine to the left, just under the cover. External part, held in with one screw, small wire harness. You have the m133 engine PDF? Page 23, part B6/15. Part Number 270-905-04-00, Engine Camshaft Position Sensor $40.80 online. I was skeptical, but for $40 and externally accessible I could just go for it. Fixed me up good.

For me, happened when I was merging on the freeway or passing, that's the only time I really go WOT off the track. (more or less). Jarring when it happens, like a fuel cut.
 

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Would you describe it as more of a low RPM hesitation or a high RPM hesitation? My only gripe with the DCT is how rubber-bandy it feels around town in comfort mode. It'd be nice if it didn't take 30 minutes to get up to running temperature too but that's a very minor complaint.
 
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