Thank you very much for taking time reply my question doyall. After looking around, I was able to locate them and got it done. However, the oil filter I purchased at Dealer, p/N A-276-180-00-09 which is a bit longer than the one I pulled out from engine. I searched on ebay, P/N is A-276-180-01-09 which seems to be the right one. Is there any advice on this oil filter?See the attached picture ... oil filter canister is circled in yellow. It is located at the rear of the engine compartment on the left side as you face the front of the car.
The oil drain plug is accessed by removing the plastic skid plate (what a contradiction in terms) that is mounted underneath the engine. It may be easier, quicker and less messy to invest in a suction pump to evacuate the oil through the dip stick tube. If you do that you will not have to get a drain plug crush washer every time you change the oil but evacuation *may* leave more oil in the crankcase than draining though. There is a YouTube video of someone sucking the oil out of a CLA (same engine) if you want to see how that works.
The crush washer (or 'sealing ring' as MB officially designates it) is a copper washer that goes between the oil drain plug and the oil pan. Its function is to provide a seal between the plug and pan to prevent oil from seeping out. Reusing the washer after draining the oil through the drain hole is not recommended although you *may* get lucky and not have a leak. The MB part # is N007603014106. They are relatively cheap. If you are going to change your own oil buy 10 or 12 and get a better price. I am sure that you could find aftermarket ones at a parts store but you want to make sure you get the right size (O.D 20mm I.D 14mm x 1.5 mm).what s this drain plug crush washer you refer to and can it be purchased at part store???? thanks....Tom
I have done it and will do it again, although at some point I may try removing the drain plug after extraction to see how much oil is still in the pan.Guys, anyone used oil extractor for your oil change? Planing to do so.
It's less hassle to change the oil, you don't have to go under the car and...:nerd:
Yes, its conformed, dealerships do suck oil. I asked my service adviser about it. He conformed, that they are extracting oil from engine, because its faster and more efficient way to do it.I have done it and will do it again, although at some point I may try removing the drain plug after extraction to see how much oil is still in the pan.
I have heard others say that extraction is the method that the dealerships use. That would not surprise me since it is so much simpler to do it that way.
Interesting, I'll have to check with my dealer at next change. Personally I would insist on drain given a choice. Better chance of removing sludge and solid particles that fall to the bottom from gravity.Yes, its conformed, dealerships do suck oil. I asked my service adviser about it. He conformed, that they are extracting oil from engine, because its faster and more efficient way to do it.
USA 2016 GLA 250 models have a dipstick, I assume that the 2015 ones do too.Good luck insisting on it - MB changed the oil change procedure when the W203 came out. That was the first set of engines from Benz that had no dipstick too. Not sure if our cars have them or not - haven't looked yet. In place of the dipstick was the tube itself, but a rubber cap on top. This was there purely to allow top-side oil change. Since I did my own changes back in the day, I bought a topsider and never looked back. Heck, if it's good enough for the manufacturer - should be good for me. And yes, it's quicker for them (they did it because they included maintenance at the time and were looking to get more margin) and it's easier on me. I'm dubious to this day about the method because of the metal filings all piling up in the bottom of the pan, but in theory they should all be going to the filter right?
I agree with Boxster that sucking the old oil out will leave ½ to a full pint of oil still in the engine with all the tiny crunchies and grindies still in it. The idea is to get rid of the broken down oil and the dirt in it, not to just make it convenient for some mechanic and give the dealer greater profit.
Always change the filter whenever doing an oil change.
I always open the old oil filter and inspect the element for metal. A cartridge-type filter is easy to cut or tear apart. With canister-types, I take it to the local airport FBO and use their filter cutter to cut off the threaded end; the filter element then easily pulls out for disassembly and inspection.
I catch and keep my waste oil in a 5-gallon paint pail. When I get it about ¾ full, I take it (my pail has a lid which protects against spillage) to a disposal place (in my case the local airport FBO has a waste oil tank. Many service (not just gas) stations have the same.).
Tom
2016 GLA250 4matic (ordered)
As mentioned on another thread, I went to a new owner seminar last week, sponsored by the dealer service department, and asked about having oil changed through the bottom drain; the service manager said the customer is always right, if I wanted it changed through the bottom drain, that's what they would do. I assume it would cost more, since they might have to use a wrench?Good luck insisting on it - MB changed the oil change procedure when the W203 came out. That was the first set of engines from Benz that had no dipstick too. Not sure if our cars have them or not - haven't looked yet. In place of the dipstick was the tube itself, but a rubber cap on top. This was there purely to allow top-side oil change. Since I did my own changes back in the day, I bought a topsider and never looked back. Heck, if it's good enough for the manufacturer - should be good for me. And yes, it's quicker for them (they did it because they included maintenance at the time and were looking to get more margin) and it's easier on me. I'm dubious to this day about the method because of the metal filings all piling up in the bottom of the pan, but in theory they should all be going to the filter right?
I guess it's possible that, depending on how many AMGs are in the queue, we GLA250 folk may have a less great experience. Depending on how my car is doing at the one year point, I may have my local guy do the A, as I trust him big time.I had just had the 1 year maintenance done on my GLA45. AMGs at the dealer (North Palm Beach MB) get priority time (goes to first in line) and only in one area of the dealership service area and only with AMG certified techs. Great experience and they change the oil by draining not suction. Was in and out in 1.5 hours and service was the A type which included changing the rear diff fluid, replace air filter, oil change with new filter and about 10 other items.
I'll guess that "so cheaply" may not be entirely the case. Years of experience have taught me that there is no such thing as a free lunch.Why change it at home? The dealer does it so cheaply and my dealer even washes the car for you while it's there for free. Plus there's free gourmet coffee and free food in the waiting room.